A Foodie’s Guide to Madrid
As you saw last month, I saw some fantastic sights in Spain. But when I wasn’t enjoying daytrips from Madrid, I was eating. Lots. 
The Spanish capital is one of Europe’s gastronomic stops and in Spain it is second only to Basque Country food. Here’s some of the great food-inspired experiences I had while in Madrid.
Churros y Chocolat for Breakfast
Although Spain is known for flavourful, delicious, tapas-style food, the breakfast scene is a bit different. Most locals eat breakfast on the run, saving their time/energy for long afternoon lunches and very late, very long dinners. However, if you do stop for breakfast, beyond the cafe con leche the en vogue treat of choice is a the calorific indulgence of churros and chocolate. The churros are essentially fried dough, sometimes with cinnamon and sugar. You dip them in hot chocolate sauce which maximises the calorific effect (and is most certainly a rich wake up call!). This is not a snack to be had every day, but when in Madrid….
Best places to have churros y chocolat are Chocolateria de San Gines (Pasadizo De San Gines 5, near Metro Sol) – one of the most famous chocolaterias in Madrid, or Cafe Commercial (Glorieta de Bilbao 7, near Metro Bilbao), a classic but touristy old world cafe.
Picnic Lunch in Parque del Retiro
Parque del Retiro was my favourite part of Madrid; skip the lame Botanical Gardens and head here. It’s free and it’s expansive – hence while you’ll find locals running, walking, and biking here from early afternoon until well after dark. There’s tons of green space to sit down and relax, so after you’ve spent time exploring the grounds and the various great architecture, find a comfortable spot and have a picnic. Cafes with sandwiches can be found dotted throughout but why not stop into Corte Engles or another supermarket and grab wine, cheese, and other snacks to get you through the afternoon? Don’t forget the corkscrew!
Afternoon Shopping at Mercado de San Miguel
Located just between my hotel and the Plaza Mayor, Mercado de San Miguel was one of those moments where you stroll off the beaten path and find heaven. (A travel more moment if I do say so myself.) This place is AMAZING. The building is an old wrought iron building opened in 1915. I understand that it has underwent recent refurbishments, and the result is an old world building with a distinctively modern flavour. From fruit stalls to glorious pastries, chocolates, and a wine bar, I think a real foodie could just camp out here for an entire week. (I tried but they close.) Be sure to pop in and check it out, as it really is a hidden gem I think. Hungry architecture buffs – this one is for you.
Evening Drinks at La Venenecia
Tapas in La Latina
Late Night Wine
Madrid is a late-night party town, but likely you knew that already. You’ll have no shortage of places to go and hang out – in fact one could stay in La Latina and continue to live it up. I’d like to suggest heading over to Plaza Santa Ana to enjoy the fresh evening air and a few classes of wine (and suspect our resident expert Alex Fayle would suggest a glass of Rioja wine). Some of the area bars have live music while others are a bit quieter, so walk around and see what strikes you fancy.
And that, my friends, is a belly-filling tour of Madrid. Salud!
Photos by Trubble, Antonio Tajuelo, jlastras, scaredy_kat, anaulin, charlie philips
Special thanks to Janelle Norman, a Madrid local who I met during my trip and who provided endless foodie inspiration. Travel more, my friend, travel more. Salud!
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November 25th, 2009 at 4:12 pm
Just got back from Madrid myself and was thoroughly impressed with the food as well. Loved the Santa Ana plaza, but the Mercado San Miguel was also a terrific late-night hotspot. It was packed on both Saturday and Sunday night when we passed through…
http://blogs.nationalgeographic.com/blogs/intelligenttravel/2009/11/madrid.html
November 25th, 2009 at 5:38 pm
This is a great article, highlighting some awesome things in a city which I love. I especially like the inclusion of La Venencia, it sounds like a spectacular place and I’ll definitely visit next time in Madrid. Two other great additions to this list would be, of course, Botin, Hemingway’s hangout, and a lesser known Casa Mingo, an Asturian chicken place where they do the Escanciando (pouring the cider from a great height to aerate it.)
I covered one bar in Madrid and one in Seville (also a chalk check on the bar type of bar) in my post @ http://tinyurl.com/ykzqvry.
I really love the blog! Keep it up!
November 25th, 2009 at 8:14 pm
I love churros – yet to find anywhere that makes them well outside of Spain, though. I may have to look up the recipe
November 25th, 2009 at 10:53 pm
Great article! Reminds me of my trip to Madrid. We had a picnic after we bought some delicious food at Mercado San Miguel. (http://www.isabellestravelguide.com/attractions-in-madrid.html)
Thanks for taking me back down memory lane
November 26th, 2009 at 3:15 am
OH MY GOD, that chocolate looks amazing!!
I can’t wait until I’m able to travel more. You’ll always be my go-to guy.
November 26th, 2009 at 5:26 pm
Yummy! I’m hungry now!
We eat really good in Madrid, that’s true!!
Some of my favorites:
- Mercado de la Reina: http://iwannagothere.com/travel-guides/spain/madrid/eating-drinking/gin-club-mercado-la-reina
- La buena: http://iwannagothere.com/travel-guides/spain/madrid/eating-drinking/la-buena-bar
- La aguja: http://iwannagothere.com/travel-guides/spain/madrid/eating-drinking/la-aguja-taberna
- Most traditional Chocolate con Churros in Madrid: http://iwannagothere.com/travel-guides/spain/madrid/eating-drinking/chocolateria-san-gines
Next time you are around here better you tell me and I can take you to some great places!!!
November 26th, 2009 at 11:35 pm
Mmmm. I love the chocolate in Spain – it’s the best in the world.
November 27th, 2009 at 8:34 am
Near San Gines Chocolateria there’s a convent that sells the most amazing cookies. They’re cloistered nuns, so you don’t see them or the cookies. You put your money in a turnstile and they turn it around and out come your cookies.
It’s a very odd experience but worth it!
November 27th, 2009 at 10:06 am
This is a great guide but you’ve missed my favourite bar in Madrid: La Casa Del Abuelo on C/ Victoria, 12. They have a site at http://www.lacasadelabuelo.es/
All they serve is prawns, wine and beer. When you order the barman gets your drink and shouts your order over to the little kitchen in the corner…”a la plancha!!” “al ajillo!!”
November 27th, 2009 at 10:32 am
@Nick Craig: That’s true! That bar is wonderful!
November 29th, 2009 at 5:37 pm
[...] Sharing Travel Experiences had me drooling with a great look at food in Madrid. Great food and great travel seem to go together. [...]
December 3rd, 2009 at 10:06 pm
Thanks for all these wonderful comments folks; it is unanimous: Madrid is delicious!
December 30th, 2009 at 3:02 pm
[...] the truth is, those churros were in fact princely – right from heaven. Even better than the chocolate churros in Madrid. But you don’t have to eat cheap in Tijuana, and if you want to avoid getting ill, [...]