The heroic Arctic and Antarctic explorations of Roald Amundsen are legendary. The stories of his long, arduous treks are climaxed by his tragic disappearance in June 1928. He was on a rescue mission and probably crashed in the Barents Sea. He and his crew endured unbelievable hardships exploring the unknown Arctic.
Amundsen’s adventures were fantastic, but I prefer to travel somewhat differently. Enduring miserable freezing conditions, starvation, and frostbite is just not my idea of an ideal trip. For years I had wanted to experience the Arctic, particularly the Norwegian area of the Svalbard archipelago, generally Sptisbergen , but was always deterred by either the cost or my desire to avoid extreme discomfort. Then suddenly an amazing opportunity opened up, a chance to travel more and visit this wonderland of pristine beauty and fabulous wildlife aboard one of the world’s finest exploration ships.
Cruising the Silversea
Arctic cruising aboard Silversea’s Prince Albert is a bit different from Amundsen’s painful and painstaking journeys. Our rugged activities included getting dressed for climbing into the sturdy zodiacs—it takes a lot of effort to put on thermal underwear, waterproof pants, several layers of tops and sweaters, several layers of socks, waterproof boots, cruise line-issued heavy parka, and an infuriating contraption to keep us afloat if necessary. It was probably designed to challenge one’s understanding of knots and satisfy the insurance underwriters. Then, bundled in all our gear, we would waddle to the reception area looking more like a bunch of chubby red lemmings and wait our turn to climb down the collapsible metal stairs outside the ship into the bouncing rubber zodiacs. Two strong pairs of arms made sure no one landed in the frigid water.
Wonderful Rewards
The reward for all this work was the chance to see breathtaking scenery and wildlife straight out of a National Geographic TV special. I also gained an appreciation for the patience of a true wildlife photographer. The first few days the polar bears were no-shows. But we persevered, figuring the polar bears had to eventually show up. Besides, this is a luxury cruise, so the bartender was always willing to alleviate our disappointment with a few specialty drinks. I think our captain understood that 122 people on a ship for 10 days without any polar bear sightings could put a serious dent in his stocks of liquid refreshments.
And polar bear we did see, and walrus, reindeer, humpback whales, and a huge variety of birds, sometimes by the thousands. Our excitement watching a magnificent polar bear hunting for food rivaled that of any fan watching the seventh game of a World Series. There were hikes up glaciers, sailing among crackling blue ice, a beautiful ring-necked seal surfacing almost next to the zodiac. A pod of humpback whales breached playfully along side the Prince Albert, showing off their classic fluke. Plus everyday there were the sights of snow covered mountains. By every day I mean all day and all night. June north of the Arctic Circle means 24-hour daylight.
Our journey through the islands took us as far as 80 degrees north, sailing into intimidating icefields. We waded ashore to climb the famous 14th July Glacier. We walked through the old coal mining town of Ny, with its few remaining human inhabitants and lots of territorial arctic terns, dive bombing us to protect their nests. We explored abandoned whaling outposts with lonely cottages and the bones of hundred of whales. We sailed along ancient glaciers and listened to the compressed glacier ice popping in the ocean. We were surrounded by flocks of guillemont and Kittiwakes.
Madame Zabel, your table is ready….
As Silversea guests our hunt for food was much easier than the polar bear’s. Mostly it was a matter of getting out of all the expedition layers, changing into a somewhat different attire, and showing up in the restaurant. Charming Uta, our Maitre d’Hotel, greeted us every night with a beaming “Madame Gershberg, Madame Zabel, your table is ready.” While gloved, formally dressed waiters would take an arm and escort us to our favorite window table where we could watch the incredible arctic scenery. Darling Bernadette, our Filipino waitress, would explain the evening’s choices, and our fun-loving sommelier Karolina would choose our wine.
Dinner was always a gourmet multi-course affair. Appetizers might include a Mille-feuille of Green and White Asparagus, or Seared Jumbo Sea Scallop with Basil Risotto, or Boursin Cheese and Tomato Tian. An Intermezzo could be any one of creative salads or homemade cannelloni or minestrone. There was always a sorbet. Beef tenderloin, veal, lamb and an array of fish were featured entrees. Plus deserts, pastries, coffee.
And wine. Did I want the evening offerings or the special bottle from Spain I began to covet (and Karolina always had ready for me)? Did I want an after dinner drink to go with my coffee or tea, or would I just retire to the lounge and decide later?
Heaven is a suite on a luxury ship
At least once during a lifetime, the facilities on a trip should include marble countertops with backlit mirrors, designer inspired sinks and shower, and Bulgari soaps and lotions. Did I want to use the spacious shower with a choice of showerheads, or the large bathtub with its own hand held retracting shower? This is truly travel more at it’s best.
The butler, champagne, and private party invitations weren’t bad either. I’ve never been asked if I wanted help unpacking my bags. Nor have I ever had a bottle of champagne with a fruit plate and a huge box of Godiva chocolates waiting for my airplane-food bruised appetite. Since I’ve never been in the position of having a butler asking me what he could do, I decided he might as well open the bottle of champagne while I figure out which of the many drawers or shelves to use. Wood cabinets, super-soft sheets, generous balcony—Room 703 on the Prince Albert could easily become my home. This one is going to be hard to beat.
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It sounds like such a amazing trip and experience- and what luxuries! Your photos are beautiful and you certainly have me dreaming
Sounds like an amazing adventure. I’d love to visit the Arctic… we are going to Greenland for our summer holiday this year!