I spent the loveliest Easter weekend away in the bustling village of Bremen, near the German city of Hamburg. I chose it on this particular occasion as Ryanair offered a direct flight there – I’ll write more later this week about the Ryanair Experience. For now, let’s focus on Bremen itself. The photos are up on the travel photography page.
The city is a real charmer, with the beautiful medieval centre as its focal point. It was once called a wee village with a tram – hence the title of the post, and its such a simple statement that for the most part is true. I might only add that it’s a fabulous small village with a tram. Anyway, I love small European cities like this, where there aren’t hordes of tourists and you can just hang out and soak up the atmosphere. Just like my favourites such as Lille, Ghent, or Brno, Bremen offers some of the great things that I so enjoy about the continent, including:
Modern Art
You don’t need to go indoors to see art in Bremen – there’s public art nearly in every square and along most major avenues. Great stuff, really. But after visiting the Weserburg Museum, I’m feeling a bit ashamed I didn’t put this gem on my list of the best modern art in the world. Ok, so its collection does not name-drop, but it is a very respectable display; the building itself sits on an island in the river, with great views on either side. You get a free espresso at the bar with your visit too – so what’s to lose? I particularly loved the exhibit by Christian Botlanski, which after wandering through various doors and a maze left me feeling like I might be in one of those scary Saw films.
Parks and Outdoor Space
I can’t get enough of city parks and outdoor space. I just love spending a morning in the cafe, lingering over a book or newspaper, then wander out for some reflective waters and refreshing scenery. You’re spoilt for choice in Bremen: there’s the Burgerpark, a massive (even on the German scale) park that hosts a hotel, running trails, fishing ponds, and quiet streams. You can run/walk alongside the banks of the river Wesser running through town. But my favourite, without down, is the zig-zag banks of the Am Wall, which curl around the west/north/east sides of the city centre. It is the site of the former city fortifications, which when taken down this was its replacement. The trails are so tranquil and the waters so flat you could spend your entire trip just relaxing here.
Food & Drink
I’m a foodie – no hiding that – and Germany food is high on my list. There’s no end to the fantastic restaurants dotted about Bremen, featuring both local specialities as well as cuisine from other parts of Germany, including loads of great Bavarian choices. Good restaurants you shouldn’t miss include Flett (on the lovely Art Deco street Botcherstrasse), Friesenhof (just off the main square), or Paulaners (a hot spot on the riverfront).
Bremen is also home to Becks beer, and thus you can find it served nearly everywhere. Be sure to try a Haacke Becks, which I find a bit more bitter but it’s only available in this part of the world, so try it. You’ll also find plenty of wheat beers, such as Erdinger, the light and refreshing Kolsch from Cologne, and loads of other Germany top choices.
The best though is probably the dessert (again, none of my friends will be surprised here). I actually spent most of my time downing one of my favourite German ice cream treats which my mother had researched and found during a tour of Heidelberg: spaghetti ice cream. It’s a whip cream base, topped with “strings” of vanilla ice cream, and topped with strawberry sauce and white chocolate sprinkles. Absolutely delicious!!
(mine didn’t look as good as it tasted – so thanks to reiner.kraft for the photo – and thanks again mom for the tip!)
In Summary
I could go on and on about the amazing architecture, the churches, or a number of other recommendations. So – in summary, if you find yourself in this part of the world, be sure to say hello to Bremen. It’s probably a bit too far for a simple day trip from Hamburg, but you could easily see most of the sights in a couple of days.
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