Cardiff, Wales: A City of Castles and Arcades
My Cardiff sightseeing trip started out on an interesting note; after departure and landing without incident in Cardiff, the shuttle driver taking us to the airport railway station (which overlooks the sea – utterly stunning) took the scenic route: via fields full of sheep and shrubs. Strange and certainly unique!
After the bumpy start, I have to say I was stunned by Cardiff: it is one of the most European cities in the UK (at least until after dark when the drinking and nightlife scene start to take over). I had great weather as well, so I was able to explore both the massive city parks and Cardiff Bay, both Cardiff sightseeing musts. Here’s a few of my favourite experiences and tips for your visit to the Welsh Capital.
Castles
The centre of the Cardiff sightseeing scene is, of course, the unique/unusual Cardiff Castle. It is smack in the middle of the city, although interestingly enough the guide told me that Cardiff Bay used to come right up to the castle edge! You simply MUST take the premium tour at Cardiff Castle, which affords you a guide to explain some other interesting aspects of the castle, as well as a tour of some non-public rooms, like the hidden rooftop garden.
Another castle that everyone recommends is Caerphilly Castle, and this little village is an excellent daytrip from Cardiff – the train drops you at one end of the highstreet, and you can stroll through the village to the castle and wander around the shops and catch the next train into town, usually every 30-60 minutes. Caerphilly is known for it’s leaning tower; to be honest, I would skip the inside tour (not much to see except wandering around some empty rooms) and do a walk around the outside of the castle. It goes well with a takeaway cup of coffee, and of course don’t forget your camera – this is the largest castle in Wales, and it is a stunner.
I saw a castle nearly every day of my trip. Last but not least is Castelle Coch, the “Welsh Fairytale Castle.” (pictured above) If you don’t have a car, though, the experience isn’t entirely fairytale 
You need to take the train to Taff’s Well, and then walk along some motorway paths and up a steep hill to the castle. It is well worth the effort, though – the castle is gorgeous, and I had the best welshcakes on my trip in the castle tea room. It’s in a forest, which also offers walks if you fancy taking the long way back to Taff’s Well. Just bring a GPS phone to find your way.
Arcades
Everyone knows about the Cardiff arcades – you can’t miss them, and a Cardiff sightseeing tour is not complete without a stroll through them. Cardiff is a shopper’s paradise, in fact, so be sure to budget appropriately. Even if you aren’t in a shopping mood, stroll through these arcades – they are beautifully maintained with their Edwardian and Victorian furnishings.
Cardiff Bay
If you don’t fancy a shopping spree or have gotten your fill of castles, Cardiff sightseeing doesn’t end there. Mermaid Quay is an area of regeneration along Cardiff Bay and a social hotspot. While the area has a great buzz about it, I was disappointed that most of the cafes and restaurants are chains. Having said that, there are tons of terraces and benches, so at least you can enjoy the view.
MUST: Walk from the Quay around the bay to the Cardiff Barrage – the locks where the bay and the sea meet. This walk is beautiful and the locks are quite interesting as well. You can get free bikes from the tourist information centre (called ‘the tube’ – you’ll see why). There’s also great music playing at the Norwegian Church just next to ‘the tube.’
The Taff Trail
I had so many people suggest that I check out the Taff Trail, which actually runs from Cardiff Bay far out into the outskirts of Cardiff (I walked on part of it when I was at Castell Coch if that says anything – twenty minutes on the train out of town.) I highly suggest that you join the trail near Castle Street, by Bute Park (another Cardiff sightseeing must) and head out of town. The trail meanders through some gorgeous terrain, and actually I would advise if you can spare the time, walk all the way to the Llandaff Cathedral (pictured above). This is a good hour each way with bus options if you get tired, but it’s a great walk and fairly sheltered if you have rain along the way. Llandaff Cathedral is one of the oldest religious sites in Europe, and the church itself is very unique. If you do this walk, keep an eye out because the turn for the church is not signposted on the trail.
Places to Stay
I had the pleasure of staying in the Park Plaza during my trip – which is just next to Cardiff Castle. I loved it because it’s ultra chic modern but yet not stuffy. And they have a really cool stainless steel pool. Seriously, consider them for your next trip. I also have top recommendations for the Parc Hotel, which is nearby in the shopping district. I’d suggest you choose something in the city centre, since there’s so much going on and this affords you the option of catching a bus or a train out to sights around the city.
Further Afield
If you have a few days, there is plenty of Cardiff sightseeing further afield. I’ve mentioned the castles, but three places that are a top tip if you have a car:
- Brecon Beacon: EVERYONE tells you to go here. Judging by the photos, it must be some of the most picturesque countryside in Wales. It wasn’t a priority for me – I live in Scotland after all – but do consider a dayhike out here if you have the time.
- Hay-on-Wye: This little town is so cool. They’re known for their bookstores – hundreds of them, it seems. It is so weird and so very… uhm, Welsh.
- Llantwit Major: I’ve not been, but rumour has it this is one of the best beaches in Wales.
As they (don’t actually) say in Welsh, Iechyd da [cheers]!
Editorial Disclosure: This Cardiff sightseeing trip was sponsored by bmibaby, who offers regular service from Cardiff to several UK cities, and the author received a hotel media rate. As always, this sponsorship does not influence the content of this article.
Andy Hayes is the managing editor of Sharing Travel Experiences. Featured in Newsweek, the Wall Street Journal, National Geographic Traveler, and other major publications, he travels for up to seven weeks at a time and spends the other seven right here with you. Follow him on Twitter, @andrewghayes.
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May 31st, 2010 at 9:41 pm
The Museum in Cardiff is also interseting and I think there is a mining museum nearby that I’d like to visit on one of my trips there.
Caerphilly Csstle has some interesting folklore attached to it that make the interior a bit more fun if you use your imagination.
June 1st, 2010 at 9:06 pm
I only spent an afternoon in Cardiff but it was really neat. I loved the castle- especially the stone zoo animal gargoyles outside.
August 10th, 2010 at 9:26 am
It’s a really wonderful traveling experience to visit cardiff. The Welsh capital has changed dramatically over the last decade, and there is still major renewal going on, as is evidenced by the amount of building and reconstruction that is taking place. Most noticeable of all, particularly for the visitor emerging from the railway station, is the looming modernity of the Millennium Stadium, which dominates the skyline on the western edge of the city centre. The central area, with its seven delightful Victorian shopping arcades and traffic-free streets, extends from the railway station to the impressive castle. Wales as a whole has grown in self-esteem since the Welsh National Assembly was formed in 1999, and Cardiff has been a focal point in the development of the nation’s new, empowered identity.
August 10th, 2010 at 11:34 am
Ruth – aren’t your grandparents from Wales
Stephanie, you need to give it more time next trip. It’s wonderful!
Thanks Nancy for your kind comments. Love Cardiff!