Luxor, lovely Luxor. How can one best describe it? Outside the normal tourist haunts one finds a beautiful people. Egyptians are always ready to help and always with a smile. Sometimes of course they are keen to help when no help is actually required, but their offer is always genuine!

The heat of summer is best avoided, but between October and April the sky is nearly always a bright, startling blue, with sunshine throughout the day and the slow pace of life automatically slows your pace and gladdens your heart. The call to prayer adds to the feeling and one sees people tucked away with their prayer mat, stopping for a few minutes to pray. Majestic palm trees, donkeys and camels ambling past. It all adds to one’s sense of well being. Driving or walking through the countryside, scenes that are positively Biblical unfold in front of your eyes. Egyptian people toiling in the fields resemble almost totally scenes that one can find on the walls of tombs, unchanged from Pharaonic times.

The Food

Wonderful fresh fruit and vegetables await you at a fraction of the cost we find them in the West. Tomatoes that really smell “tomatoey” as if they have just been picked, which of course, they probably have. One sees donkey carts laden with fresh produce making their way to the market stalls and you know that you are eating really fresh fruit and vegetables which have not been sprayed with anything. There is something rather nice about eating things that are in season, rather than being able to buy them throughout the year, as we can in the West.

You can find just about anything you need and if it isn’t readily available, there is always someone who can find it, make it, produce it for you in next to no time. It is lovely to have clothes made for you in beautiful soft Egyptian cotton and to collect it within a day or two. Dusty little side streets that contain a myriad of different goods, quite different from the tourist bazaars, all await you.

History

Then there is the history. Stroll through ancient temples and visualize the world of the Pharaohs. Transport yourself through the millennia to the world and culture of the Ancient Egyptians, ready to unfold by way of the hieroglyphics and tomb paintings, some of which look as if they were surely done only yesterday. Must see stops include:

• the Valley of the Kings
• the temple complex of Luxor
• the temple complex of Karnak
• Medinet Habu
• the Tombs of the Nobles

There’s lots to see in Luxor – you won’t be bored, for sure.

The Luxor Charm

Living here, as I do, I have found a culture totally opposite to one I am accustomed to. Lessons I have learned about this different culture and about myself – that the precious moments in a day can be quiet and slowed down; that reusing possessions can be a virtue and that opening one’s heart and mind to a different people and culture can bring about an appreciation of how all humans share a connection and can awaken a part of yourself that you never knew existed. Should others, by reading my experiences, come to Luxor and enjoy the charms and delight that make Egypt what it is, then my writing will have been for very good purpose.

To Learn More

Want to know more about the Luxor Charm? Margaret is the author of Living the Egyptian Dream, where she explores the delights and disappointments of her time in Egypt. You can purchase a copy today via the links below.

Photos by kayugee, girolame, charlie philips, apdk

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However, whilst most people are familiar – at least by name – with the three largest Balearic Islands of Majorca, Menorca and Ibiza, the fourth island of Formentera is often neglected or simply unknown.

Peace and Quiet

Formentera is the smallest and most secluded of the Balearic Islands. Unlike the other islands, which have fully mature tourism markets with regular cheap flights to and from Britain and mainland Spain, Formentera is only accessible by boat. To get there you’ll need to fly to Ibiza and then take a 40 minute ferry across to the island. The bonus of this is that Formentera is quieter than its Balearic sister islands and much less crowded in beaches and restaurants, offering an idyllic and tranquil holiday.  There is a high season, around July and August, but still you can find some special places that you’ll have all to yourself.

Authentic Balearic Experience

Unlike some of the more popular islands, Formentera remains a truly Spanish destination unspoiled by the demand for British cuisine, pubs and culture. The exquisite local seafood dishes and beach markets provide an authentic Balearic magic, which has been lost slightly in the overcrowded and over-commercialised spots in Ibiza and Majorca.  Most beaches have small chiringuitos (beach bars) that serve fresh local fish.  Another Formentera speciality is paella; Juan y Andrea is probably the best and the most well-known paella.

Great for Family Holidays

You can find some top cheap holidays in Majorca to enjoy with all the family but Formentera offers that little something extra which you won’t find on the other islands. As the island is considerably smaller than the other Balearics, there is a closer tight-knit feel to the island atmosphere that’s often absent in the club-lands of Ibiza or even Menorca. Crime is virtually non-existent in Formentera and kids are safe to wander the bazaars at night without concern from parents. Formentera is extremely family friendly and a wonderful place to take children for the summer holidays.

Jelly Free

No, not that kind of jellly! One of the downsides of the beautiful Balearic beaches is that they are an ideal breeding ground for jellyfish. The problem was so prolific in Ibiza that fishermen were paid €600 a kilo for hauling jellyfish out of the waters. Fortunately this is not the case in Formentera, which is totally jelly free. Swimmers and sunbathers can enjoy the beaches with no fear of being stung by a jellyfish.  You can’t go wrong on Ses Illetes or Cala Conta, two of the top rated stretches of shore.

Naturism

Naturism has been a part of Formentera’s culture for many years and those who prefer to enjoy the beaches in their birthday suit can do so at a number of Formentera’s secluded spots. There are designated family areas where clothing is required along the coasts, but many areas are relaxed about naturalism and allow people to be free to enjoy themselves as nature intended.

If you don’t want to strip down to your birthday suit, then another great option for “feeling free” is to rent a bicycle – it’s a great way wander, explore, and find your own serendipity on Formentera.

Photo credits planeta_roig, alfvet, frankipanki, maurice_flower, nicoatridge, Formentra Tourism Board

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I scrunched my nose and coughed.

“And that’s your first experience with burning trash,” Sam said as we were riding back to the hotel. Sam, the United Planet country coordinator, had just met me at the airport and we were in the tuk-tuk on our way back to the guesthouse to meet the other volunteers. This was not the last time I would ask myself, what am I doing here? I had been anticipating my trip to Siem Reap in Cambodia for months. I thought that I was just going to be volunteering in Cambodia at an orphanage and teaching at an English school, but I was in for so much more.

And So It Began

We visited the Imagine Angkor Foundation and met the children at the orphanage that we would be spending time with over the next week and a half. The 12 children at Imagine Angkor range in age from 5-18 and loved spending time with new people. While I was in Siem Reap, one of the other volunteers and I brought crayons, coloring books, stickers, and other stuff for the children. They sat and colored for over an hour.

One night, when it came time to leave, there were no adults around. We didn’t want to leave the children alone and weren’t sure what to do. It was then that I learned you cannot trust the phone network in Cambodia. I finally got in touch with Sam who told me that the older kids would take care of the younger ones and we could leave. Another lesson in how different life in Cambodia was than the United States.

Our School

Our volunteering in Cambodia experience took us to an English school, Khmer Chewy Khmer (Khmer Helping Khmer). The Khmer Chewy Khmer English school is one of the most amazing places I have ever been. The Director, Phaly (prounounced Paul-e), has turned his home into a free school for children to learn English since private English classes cost $5-8/month, which most families cannot afford. The teachers are past students who have volunteered to teach there, and some have moved away from their families, or travel a long way each day to meet that commitment.

At Khmer Chewy Khmer, I either helped one of the teachers with pronunciation, or ran a classroom of my own if the teacher was unable to be there that night. Although the students had donated workbooks, they mostly just wanted to practice their conversation skills and listen to native pronunciation of English words. Their goal is to learn English to be able to work in one of the hotels in Siem Reap or to become a temple guide.

Phaly told us not to come to the school one morning because there was a huge parade celebrating Angkor’s Wat’s one year anniversary as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. He was so proud of his country that he thought it was more important for us to see that then help him at the school. The morning of the parade, we started walking along with the procession and ended up walking the whole 6 kilometers to the amazing temple at Angkor Wat.

A couple days later we found out that Phaly’s father was killed by the Khmer Rouge in 1977. I can’t even begin to imagine the devastation and destruction that caused a country to still be recovering from something that happened 30+ years ago. Knowing about his father, and knowing that Phaly himself was imprisoned as a slave during the Khmer Rouge makes his dedication and infallible spirit even more amazing. He inspires everyone he meets and has such a passion for making his country a better place. There aren’t many people in this world like Phaly, and he is a person that I will never forget.

My Favourite Sights

Volunteering in Cambodia wasn’t all business, though.  We still had time to sightsee, and believe me, there are some amazing sights to see!  Some of my favourites:

• Traditional Aspara Dancing
• The Royal Garden
• The Silk Farm – the whole process from the worms to the finished product
• The famous temples of Angkor Wat
• Lake Tonle Sap – a town on the lake

In Reflection

I would highly recommend visiting Cambodia. While I hear the experience is a bit different for men and women, I wouldn’t trade my time there for anything in the world. I went with the non-profit United Planet, an organization that has a variety of volunteer programs (teaching, medical, orphanages, etc.) in several countries across the world. I chose United Planet because it was my first time traveling abroad, and I was traveling alone, so I wanted a bit more support. They provide transfer to and from the airport, an orientation in the country, and take you to the volunteer sites the first day. The cost to volunteer is a bit higher than some other organizations, but you can fundraise and it is tax-deductible, so that helped me offset the cost a bit.

Never have I experienced people that are so connected to one another and have such a strong sense of community. They depend on each other and help each other. This is a country that experienced an awful tragedy under the Khmer Rouge in the late 1970’s, but you would never know that something so terrible had ever happened. The people are so full of life and love. They want to share their culture with you and learn about yours.

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Santa Fe  is a popular travel destination. According to Condé Nast Traveler and Travel and Leisure, this small city (pop. About 70,000) is one of the top five destinations in the US. People come here for the mystique and history; many fall in love and stay. We did. The guidebooks are loaded with things to do in Santa Fe and many of them; even the really touristy things are worthwhile and fun to do. Some stuff is less mainstream; mostly that’s what I’m going to share.

In and Around Santa Fe

One of my favorite tourist attractions is the Loretto Chapel, home of the Miraculous Staircase. Yeah, it’s a little touristy with its continuous-loop tape running telling the story of the miracle and the gift shop is a little too much, but. I always get a chill when I come here. The story is amazing and there is a special feel to the Chapel- you just have to shut out the drone of the tape running in the background and sometimes it is too crowded. Hang out a while, the crowds will leave.

Santa Fe has eight museums. My favorites are the Museum of International Folk Art (love the colorful Girard Gallery) and the Georgia O’Keefe Museum (depending on the exhibit). Two gems that don’t get much attention are the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian and the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art.   Two private museums up on Museum Hill along with Folk Art Museum and the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, both run by the State of New Mexico. The new History Museum, opened in 2009 is a new favorite and worth visiting. And really, all the museums are worthwhile if you are interested in their area of focus.

If you Google “Santa Fe Museums,” they all come up except for Site Santa Fe, the contemporary museum in the trendy new Railyard District.  They are famous for their biennial exhibits. The eighth annual runs from June 18, 2010, and will run through to January 2, 2011.

If you like art, check out some of the over 200 galleries in town. The largest concentration is on historic Canyon Road, but they are spread all around the Plaza area and in the Railyard District. If you want to take home quality Native American and Spanish Colonial Art; Santa Fe is the place to shop. It can be pricey, depending on the artist; also rents are high, supposedly comparable to those in Manhattan’s SoHo. Shop carefully; there are a lot of reproductions floating around. A great place to shop for Native American jewelry and pottery is in front of the Palace of the Governors (the oldest government building still in use in the US). There is a very strict program for these artists and everything is authentic. The museum shops are also a great shopping resource and can be less expensive as they are non-profit.

Day-Tripping in Georgia O’Keefe Country

One of our favorite places (my traveling companion is my husband Steve) for a day-trip is Georgia O’Keefe Country a little over an hour northwest of Santa Fe. Made famous by the artist, there is much to see. Check out her home and studio in town (the famous one at Ghost Ranch is off-limits due to its fragile condition). Open from mid-March through late November, tours are by appointment only. Reserve early, as this is a popular destination. Ghost Ranch is worth a visit. Now a Presbyterian Conference, it is home to important fossil and dinosaur bone discoveries (we found this out when our then six-year-old grandson discovered it on Google). They have a hot new discovery due to be announced this year. There are two museums on-site and lots of great hiking trails. Visitors are very welcome, just check in at the office.

When leaving Ghost Ranch, go north a few miles to Echo Amphitheater.  The rock formations here create echoes. I am a child at heart and love to yell “Hello,” and hear “Hello, hello, hello,” coming back at me.

Heading south again, there is an obscure road leading to Christ in the Desert, a Benedictine Monastery. They welcome lunch visitors and overnight guests. Please contact them for a reservation. This is a contemplative order and meals are taken in silence. The ride is about twelve miles over a poorly maintained dirt road and is slow (about 45 minutes). The views of the Chama River and the surrounding mountains along the way are beautiful. On the way back to Santa Fe (or on the way up) you can visit Plaza Blanca (O’Keefe’s White Place). It is on land owned by the Dar al-Islam Foundation; they too, are very welcoming. It is a short walk from the car to the unique rock formations that inspired the artist.

On out last trip up to O’Keefe Country in the fall we discovered something new to us, the Poshouinge Ruins.  This historic pueblo is located on a hill overlooking the Chama River Valley. It had over 700 rooms. You can walk among the ruins, view the two plazas and the remains of a kiva (ceremonial chamber). We’re going back to explore more in the spring.

The Charms are Neverending

Love lavender? The Purple Adobe Lavender Farm between the highway and the Chama River has fields of purple and a lavender-themed gift shop. They are open by appointment only. As with any outdoor activity in New Mexico, bring lots of water, sunscreen, a hat and some snacks. We either pack a lunch or pick something up at Bode’s General Store serving Abiquiu since 1919 (the old store was in the village where it started under a different name in1890). This funky place is a trip. It is a gas station, a grocery, a hardware store, a vendor of souvenirs and O’Keefe memorabilia. The café offers sandwiches and a hot dishes and is popular with both locals and visitors. You can also opt to eat at the Abiquiu Inn.

Hope you enjoy your time in Santa Fe and the Land of Enchantment.  It hooked us; perhaps it will hook you.

Photos by James Jordan,puroticorico, planet love, wordcat57

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Ruta del Spondylus, Ecuador: a place where you can awake to the thunder of the surf crashing outside your door and exotic, colorful birds singing their early morning songs. Do you long for leisurely strolls along an endless beach of silken sand, blissfully in the moment gathering sand dollars and seashells while watching the humpback whales breach and frolic just offshore? Or maybe you crave the adventure of a trip into the nearby jungle to swing from zip-lines, and to explore ancient Inca ruins. Surfers come to catch one of the best breaks in South America, just 5 minutes away. Perhaps you want to be pampered with soothing spa treatments, and are looking for rejuvenation using holistic (yet ancient) natural healing techniques.

Welcome to Paradise

Welcome to Olón, Ecuador, a tranquil fishing village situated along the 14 mile “Ruta del Spondylus” (formerly known as the “Ruta del Sol”); one degree south of the Equator, along the Pacific Coast of Ecuador.

This is an adventurers’ delight. This tropical paradise includes wild horses running on the beach, iguanas lounging about, and birds of every color imaginable. Intrepid explorers will melt into this environment and need not pack much more than a bathing suit, cover-up, and sturdy hiking shoes.

Along the beach of Olón are a number of outdoor cabanita-style “restaurants” that offer heaping plates of daily fresh seafood prepared to your request (along with generous amounts of rice and fried plantains) and large beer for less than $5.00. Or if you desire, wait for the night fishing boats to return with their haul of 9” prawns to grill on your own barbie.

Daytripping

Be sure and include a day-trip jaunt to the nearby Isla de la Plata. One of the hidden gems of Ecuador, this is a small island off the coast of Puerto Lopez, and is often called the ”poor man’s Galapagos”, and has also long been called “Silver Island.” Some say the name derived from the fact that Sir Francis Drake buried his treasure there centuries ago. Whatever the explanation, Isla de la Plata offers a great Galapagos-like experience for an affordable price. See Blue-footed boobies up close, the legendary Magnificent Frigates, and swim with the Galapagos turtles. Advanced snorkeling, spear fishing, and scuba trips are available as well. Isla de la Plata is one of those places in Ecuador where you can lose yourself in a landscape uniquely different from any on earth.

Nearby, in the hills of Olón is the Samai Holistic Center which offers a number of spa treatments, (including Aromatherapy and Shiatsu, Reflexology, Swedish and Acu-Pressure Massages, Acupuncture, Herbal Steam baths and rooms, Jacuzzi, pool, Feng Shui, and more). For those looking for a deeper experience, the Samai also offers Shamanic healing techniques through first-hand experience. Groups or individuals participate in sacred ceremonies which promote a transformational shift in self-awareness and personal growth. Additionally, presentations and workshops are available to continue a rejuvenation of the spirit.

Party with the Neighbours

If you tire of the peace and quiet in Olón, head on over to Montañita for its world-renowned surf break (peaking in December through March). Surfing lessons are available for those beginners who want to give it a go. This is a town that never sleeps, the party is always on, and the locals and visitors alike are friendly and laid-back. Get comfortable; sip a mojito at one of the many international cafés and people watch. A diverse crowd from all over the world visits this town; musicians play along the streets, jugglers show off, and nightly fire-dancers entertain the many enthusiastic on-lookers. Montanita also offers a number of comfortable high-speed internet locations for those wanting to stay connected.

Getting There

To reach this little slice of heaven, the nearest airport is in Guayaquil, EC, (about 2 hours away) which is the jumping off point for the Galapagos Islands. From Guayaquil airport, there are a number of transportation options to the coast. While on the beach, it’s actually cheaper to rent a driver with car, than to rent a car itself. You can walk or take a cab to Montanita for less than 1.00. Ecuador is on the US Dollar system and you can get an excellent meal for 5.00 including drinks.

Olon is within 1 degree of The Equator; perfect year round temperatures. Locals are genuine and friendly. Perfect for Galapagos, Guayaquil and Cuenca travelers. This is a tropical dream come true.

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Whether you’re here to relax in a Finnish sauna, to perhaps experience cosmopolitan Finland, or just to explore a new Scandinavian destination, you can’t go wrong with Helsinki. Here are my top tips for the best Helsinki experience.

Outdoor Sightseeing

Despite being in what’s a fairly cold place, Helsinki has a ton of fantastic stuff to do outside.  The city centre is on a peninsula which means there’s lots of gorgeous shoreline to explore and islands in the harbour to see.  Must-sees:

• Sibelius Monument:  these 600 metal organ pipes welded together are a huge tourist attraction, and for good reason:  this is one of the best pieces of outdoor art I’ve seen.  It’s gorgeous from far away and close up.  The light is best towards mid-late afternoon.
• Töölönlahti: a park just behind the main rail station.  It’s a total urban oasis, and you can walk or jog here and see some great sights.  It’s also beautiful at night with the buildings reflecting against the lake.
• Esplanadi Park: a small but totally chic park in the middle of the city.
• Suomenlinna:  a must, must, must see!!  From little  hidden beaches to courtyard cafes, museums, and the old sea fortress, this is a top attraction and the ferry ride over is fantastic!

There are many, many other parks, such as Kaivopuisto by the sea and Central Park to the north.  If you want fresh air and need to stretch your legs, Helsinki has plenty of options.

Museums & Churches

The Fins love good art, and their appreciation shows in the capital.  My personal favourite is Kiasma, which is their contemporary art museum just smack in the middle of the city.  It’s quite a cool, sort of open air building, and the collection draws on strengths in many media, including film and installations. For Finnish art, the Ateneum is where you’ll want to go, with its massive collection.  Contrast it with the weird and wonderful displays in the Design Museum – it highlights “consumer goods design.”  Intriguing indeed.

The city’s churches are also museums in and of themselves; the Lutheran Cathedral (pictured above) is an icon symbol but I feel compelled to point out it’s a bit more exciting from the outside than the inside.  Far more interesting is the Church in the Rock (Temppeliaukio).  Go and see if you can figure out why someone thought that was good design!  And for a bit of flair, stop by the Upenski Cathedral, which is definitely my favourite of all the churches, both outside and in.

Shopping

It isn’t cheap, but the shopping is good in Helsinki.  Stockmann – Finland’s major department store – is a fun place to start where you can check out Finnish fashions, as well as their own souvenir shop (which, unfortunately, is just as pricey as the souvenir shops elsewhere – so might as well get the good stuff here). Once you’ve finished there, head for the Design District, a bohemian  neighbourhood full of boutiques everything from furniture to art.  There are approx. 170 shops across 25 streets, so you’re bound to spark some creative juices during any visit.

Best Restaurants in Helsinki

You won’t go hungry (or thirsty) in Helsinki: trust me.  Just bring your wallet

Breakfast

The Finnish people drink more coffee per capita than any other nation, supposedly – but one mug of a fresh coffee from a local cafe will start your day off properly.  Two things that are best enjoyed with a morning coffee include krovapuusti (an oversized cinnamon roll, translated as ‘a smack on the ear’) and pulla (a cardamom-flavored coffee cake).  Great cafes to relax with a coffee or tea include Cafe Engle on Senate Square, Cafe Fazer at Kluuvikatu, and Cafe Fazer.

Lunch

If you have the benefit of decent weather, then stop by a supermarket and then go picnic on Suomenlinna.  It is the it thing to picnic out here, and you won’t be alone.  There’s a supermarket by the ferry station in Suomenlinna but it gets awfully crowded so shop in advance if you can.

If the weather is nice but you don’t fancy a picnic, try Cafe Ursula, pictured above – it has great views from the seaside location.

Otherwise, you will want to find yourself at  Kappeli, a place that has witnessed much history as a favourite haunt for Finnish poets, musicians, and literary figures.   They do a good lunch or evening meal as well.

Dinner

I think it might be the sauce, but every time I had pizza in Helsinki, it was amazing.  There are a lot of pizza places too – so don’t be shy and think “oh this is the lame tourist option” – the pizza is good!!

For Finnish food, I loved Baker’s on Mannerheimintie.  They don’t really tell you but the bread bar is a self-serve and kind of all-you-can-eat deal, so don’t be shy.  But you don’t need a lot with the huge burgers, tasty reindeer, not to mention ice cream sundaes for those with a sweet tooth.

Ravintola Savoy also serves traditional Finnish cuisine in a gorgeous 1930s building, with a great view and vibe.  Try their Vorschmack ,a meat dish with onion and either anchovies or herring.

Daytrips from Helsinki

As much as I love Helsinki, there is plenty of opportunity to get out of the city for the day. My two top recommendations:

• Porvoo: It’s a riverside city of adorable wooden houses (pictured above) with old fashioned shops in them.  It’s slightly touristy but still quite enjoyable.  Head for the houseboat coffeeshop for some fantastic ambience and a great cup of joe.  Walk around, get away from the crowded markets and just soak up rural life.  You can get here via bus, via boat, or a combination of the two.  I couldn’t take the boat because it was full, so make reservations ahead of time if you plan on choosing this option!
• Nuuksio National Forest in Espoo:  You don’t have to head to Lapland to experience extreme Finnish forests, just take the short trip to Espoo.  It’s endless forests, unspoilt lakes, and the freshest air you’ll find in Europe.  There are places to overnight here too, and to be honest if I had it to do again, I’d probably take a couple of days out here to just detox.

Helsinki:  What’s not to like?

Photos by Andy Hayes except Design District & Food photos by IKs World Trip

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A lot of people seem to say that the only things to see in Chicago are downtown.  While there is a ton of stuff to do there, it’s Chicago’s vibrant neighbourhoods and avenues lined with shops and cafes that are the real charm.  Let’s explore a few of my favourite strips and point out a few places to get a great feeling for the real Chicago.

Michigan Avenue: The Magnificent Mile

I would be remiss by not mentioning the Magnificent Mile as one of the things to see in Chicago.  Walking down Michigan Avenue is all but overwhelming for the uninitiated – skyscrapers reach to the sky and shoppers flood the streets with their bulging bags and oversized purchases.  It is nuts – and a must see.  I suggest you head south and cross the Chicago River (pictured above) where the views are stupendous, then head over to Grant Park which will be on your left.  A recent refurbishment in the last year or so opened up several quite interesting public art installations, including the “bean” (a giant mirrored jellybean).  Grant park also has the iconic Buckingham Fountain and if you go to the fountain then look back, the skyline is just breathtaking.   You shouldn’t miss out on a stop to Macy’s while you’re down here.  It wasn’t always Macy’s – this was once Marshall Fields, once considered one of America’s best department stores. A lot of the charm has left, I am afraid to say, but it still is a special place to see.

Lakeshore Drive: Lincoln Park

If you’re feeling overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle, then head for Lakeshore Drive.  Then get on the other side and soak up the relaxing atmosphere of Lincoln Park.  I would be hard pressed not to say this is my favourite thing about Chicago.  The path along the shore extends for miles and miles both north and south of the downtown.  Bike, rollerskate, run, or walk but whatever you do, see it and enjoy it.    You can access the path at most major road intersections, but bring your own snacks as there aren’t that many cafes, except at North Avenue beach.  Yes – Chicago has beaches – there are several along the lake, believe it or not!

Tip: You need to get up early, but a sunrise on Lake Michigan while sitting here on the shore is phenomenal.  The sun is huge and you’ll figure out why people here put up with those lousy winters.

Clark Street: Andersonville

Andersonville is the city’s Swedish neighbourhood, though that’s much more of a traditional significance – you won’t see people wandering around speaking Swedish today.  You can, though, enjoy an oversized cinnamon roll at Ann Sather’s (again, not really that Swedish) or head for the more authentic Swedish Bakery.  But this is a gastronomic destination for sure – lots of boutique cafes and restaurants and diners have made Andersonville their home,  such as Reza’s (Persian – try the brunch!), La Tache (French), Jin Ju (Korean), or Charlie’s Ale House (American).  That’s just the stuff along Clark street!  There are plenty of antique shops, ice cream parlours, and other little places that you could easily spend a day just strolling along this stretch of road.

Top Secret:  Head towards the lake to Sheridan Rd then head south.  You’ll find a little homely, gay-owned and gay-friendly restaurant Tweet.  No, not like Twitter.  It’s a French cafe and it is probably the second best French restaurant in, well, the United States. (The best French restaurant, if you’re wondering, is in Long Island.)  It is that awesome.  Reservations recommended.

To wash it all down, check out the Euro-fabulous Hopleaf, which is the best beer bar in Chicago.  Their selection is unparalleled and the staff know what they’re doing.

Belmont and Halsted:  ”Boystown”

Lakeview is another popular neighbourhood and the epicentre at Belmont & Halsted is known as “Boystown” in reference to the city’s cluster of gay establishments.  But with all of the great food, hip and happening bars, vintage clothing stores and other amenities, almost everybody wants to live here.

Besides all of the flash and glam on Halsted, one of the more offbeat choices would be the Brew &View just west of the El station (Europeans might not find this all that exciting, but most movie cinemas in America don’t serve alcohol.  The Brew and View does – as if the name didn’t give it away).    Also if you head up Clark street, if you don’t want a tattoo then stop and eat what they call ‘contemporary brunch’ at Orange.  You’ll have to wait for a table, but it’s well worth it for their fresh and modern interpretation of those boring brunch classics.  Yum!

Addison Street:  Wrigleyville

Ah, good old Wrigleyville.  It’s a totally different place when there is a Cubs game playing, and I suggest that if you have the opportunity, go to a game.  You don’t have to know anything about baseball [I didn't when I went] to enjoy yourself on one of America’s sports stadium icons.   Murphy’s Bleachers Bar is a great place to go on game days for their massive burgers and so-big-theyre-hard-to-carry beers.  I like just walking around Wrigley away from the stadium.  There’s a weird old comic book shop, some wonderful homes, and a gorgeous cemetery to the north.

Lincoln Avenue: Lincoln Square

We round off our six amazing avenues with one of the things to see in Chicago many don’t even consider:  Lincoln Square.  Several years Lincoln Square was a desolate place, nothing interesting, but the condo developers moved in and the great food and fun shops came in right after.  Today Lincoln square is the perfect place to sit and enjoy a coffee after a filling meal at one of the pubs.  If you want your choice of coffee or wine with a splash of jazz, walk south along Lincoln avenue and head for Katerina’s, a funky live music club cum cultural centre on Irving Park road.  And if that doesn’t suit you, walk a couple of blocks further to the south on Lincoln and you’ll reach CB2: a fun, modern, and a little crazed version of Crate and Barrel where you’re bound to find the perfect accessory to take home for your apartment or a little gift for a friend.

Photos by Christopher & Amy, Bert K, eertmoed, discosour, John Picken, Ben+Sam, James Quinn

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The Gamla Stan

The Gamla Stan is Stockholms old city centre – a tiny island, actually, though walking the narrow alleyways and lanes you won’t notice.  While the boutique shops are both charming and tatty, it’s more just the experience of getting lost and admiring the colourful architecture that you should come  here for, such as the “Mårten Trotzigs Gränd” – the narrowest alley in the city.   Don’t miss the Riddarholmen church, as it is one of the oldest buildings in the city and just breathtaking inside and out.

Waterside Walks

Stockholm city centre is actually made up of 14 islands that sit on Lake Mälaren, so walking along the water is a pretty easy thing to do.  Once you’ve gotten lost in the Gamla Stan, head towards the edge of this island and look around. Stunning no?

But head out of the Gamla Stan and around to the north then east, where you’ll head for the island called Skeppsholmen. This is such a wonderful place because not only will you find a couple of museums, but there are also gardens and a wonderful walking path that offers those classic landscape views of Stockholm you see on the postcards!  If it is a sunny day, you simply must must must spend a few hours here.

Shopping

You won’t find anyone in Stockholm poorly dressed, and in fact after a couple of days you will feel compelled to throw yourself at the mercy of once of the city’s amazing department stores.  I’m not a huge shopper but found myself at the shops drooling over the trendy yet not-over-the-top fashions.  The two main department stores are Ahlens and NK.  Of course in between are a number of the traditional brands as well as a new unique shops.

H&M, the ubiquitous European clothing shop, is also here.  And yes, it is Swedish.  Is the H&M stuff better in Sweden? Or cheaper?  No, and no.

Sweden also brought IKEA to the world, but skip trekking out to the suburbs for a visit (why?  it’s already in Swedish where you live too, right?) but instead pop into the many furniture and home furnishings boutiques.  The Design Torget is without a doubt my favourite – you won’t believe some of the great stuff you can find in here.  Bring an empty suitcase!

Food

Many people will tell you to head for Den gyldene freden – ‘The Golden Palace’ – as it is probably the most famous and listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as “the oldest restaurant in the world to have the same surroundings.” Translation:  nothing much has changed.  While it is lovely and the food is good, you’re going more to say you’ve been than to rave about the food.

I preferred Restaurant Prinsen if you want good tasty Sweden food at reasonable prices and a nice environment.

The best part of Swedish food, for me, is the bakery sweets:  you won’t have any trouble finding one as they’re dotted all around the city centre.  A great places for sandwiches and sweets is Vete-Katten, a few blocks off of the main shopping street.

Daytrips

Stockholm has plenty going on so there isn’t a need to head anywhere else, in my opinion.  But, should you want to get away from the city for the day, here are two daytrip suggestions:

• Uppsala:  about 70km north of Stockholm, Uppsala is a charming little village.  The Uppsala cathedral (pictured above) is the largest cathedral in Sweden.  Surrounding it are several parks and quaint streets along the river.  Uppsala also has its own castle.
• Sigtuna: This is the oldest medieval town in Sweden and historical documents indicates a Viking royal estate was once here.   The little wooden houses on the main street are just adorable!

Photos by visulogik, tylerdurden1, let ideas compete, let ideas compete, mararie

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It’s easy to fall in to cliched prose when talking about the Hawaiian Islands. It’s not laziness, though, it’s enchantment. The water IS that blue and inviting, the breezes ARE that gentle and smell of salt and flowers, the people really DO welcome you with great aloha. With so much to love about the islands, it’s hard to narrow it down to top 10 or best of lists, plus, your Hawaii is likely to be completely different from anyone else’s because the islands DO offer an amazing variety. With that in mind, here are a few of my island favorites.

Places to stay

Kona Village Resort, Kona, The Big Island: This is a huge splurge, but it’s all inclusive and oh, I still get weepy when I think of our stay there. The guest rooms are luxurious little “hales” — houses — under the palms, some with stunning views of the ocean, others tucked back along the lagoon… in spite of all my travels, Kona Village Resort remains on the top of my list.

Aqua Hotels, Waikiki: I’ve stayed in two of the Aqua properties and liked them both — the Coconut and the Bamboo. They’re in the heart of Waikiki, you can walk to the beach, they’re clean, comfortable, affordable, and they have great little amenities like WiFi and microwaves in the rooms. I like it when a hotel acknowledges that you’re going to snack — and makes it easier for you to do so.

Condo-a-go-go, anywhere: Let’s face it, the islands can be expensive, and it will save you some dough if you rent a place with a kitchen so you can make your own food from time to time. Condos are available anywhere in the islands. I’m fond of HomeAway for vacation rentals, but you can use just about any service you like. They come in all price ranges with all kinds of amenities, wifi, a pool, beach access… shop around.

Things to eat

Crab Ramen from Sansei at the Marriott, Waikiki: I am still talking about the crab ramen, months and months after I’ve eaten it.

Sensei has fancy cocktails, a sushi happy hour, and did I mention the crab ramen? Good lord.

Dave’s Ice Cream at the Kamoi Snack Shop on Moloka’i: Get the coffee and the chocolate and sit outside on the park bench in Kaunakakai. Forget everything but the cold taste melting in your mouth while the sun bakes your sandaled feet.

Mango smoothies, just about anywhere: Make sure you ask for all fruit, no soft serve. There’s a guy in the International Marketplace in Waikiki, there’s a bike blender at a mile marker on the road to Hana, there’s a smoothie shack on the road through Kepa’a… slurp. Yum.

Stuff to do

Kealakakua Bay has amazing snorkeling, clear waters, and it’s an essential place in Hawaii’s history. I’ve gone out twice with Fair Wind on their snorkel tour and it was perfect, really perfect. It’s a little pricey, but lunch, your gear, a very hospitable and competent crew are all included. It’s a great trip, you shouldn’t visit the Big Island without going to Kealakakua Bay. Plus, if you’re going to sing “I wanna go back to my little grass shack in Kealakakua Hawaii, you gotta go to Kealakakua, right?

At the Kanikapila Grill on Oahu in the heart of Waikiki, you can have a cocktail and listen to the best of Hawaiian music… for free. No cover. The Kanikapila Grill is at the Outrigger Reef on the Beach and hosts award winning Hawaiian musicians. There’s music every night and sometimes, in the afternoons too, and it’s some of the best Hawaii has to offer. A bargain at the price of a cocktail — you’ll pay 40US and up for a show of this quality of music on the mainland.

Everyone tells you to drive to Hana, and yeah, it’s amazing and worth every one of the 600 curves, but smart travelers to Maui book an overnight in Hana and take twice the time to get there and back. You can leave a little later, taking your time to get to Hana and be rewarded with fewer travelers, less traffic, and honestly, a safer trip because you’re not driving back in the dark.

It’s green and slippery and the humidity can take you down, but you can’t beat the views from the Kalalau Trail on Kauai’s Na Pali Coast. You’ll need good shoes, water, snacks, and determination. It’s good to be fit, as well, and sure footed because it’s a challenging slog. But oh, the views! The views! The views! Even if you decide not to tackle the entire trail, the steep climb up to the first lookout is worth the effort.

It’s easy to visit Lana’i without renting a car, you can take the hotel shuttle just about everywhere, but if you want to get your eyes full of unreal landscape, rent a Jeep and head down to the Garden of the Gods. It’s all red rock and wind and dramatic vistas — and at the end of the road there’s a spectacular stretch of beach that you’ll likely have to yourself. 4×4 novices, there are a few rough spots and it’s bouncy, but with a little patience and the random application of more gas than you think necessary, you’ll be fine.

I almost hate to tell you this because Moloka’i holds a special place in my heart, but there’s almost nothing better to do in Hawaii than head over to Moloka’i to do… nothing. I still feel myself napping under the coconut trees, watching the sunset while chatting with fisherman on the west end of the island, or hanging out in the diner having breakfast for waaaaay too long. If I can pick the heaven I go to when I die, it will be Moloka’i.

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Flying into the “Katmandu of South America,” the plane flew alongside the jagged snow-capped mountain peaks, which seemed to grow dizzyingly higher as we descended into the valley. On my first adventure to the southern hemisphere, descending vertiginously into the valley that sheltered the capital of the Inca Empire that, at its peak, had spread from Argentina to Chile, I felt literally on top of the world. Peru is the meeting place of histories, cultures, and nature – all of which blended to create an unforgettable and unique experience.

Matteo, the driver from the hostel, greeted me at the airport holding a makeshift sign with my name scrawled on it. His English was about as good as my functional Spanish, so we made do switching between the two. Speeding through the barrios of Cusco, my senses were overwhelmed by the sights and colors. The dusty streets were not always marked with lines for cars to follow, and stray dogs roamed up and down scavenging for scraps. The houses and buildings were squat – two to three stories at the most – and beige with trims, shutters, and balconies painted in bright blues and reds. I tried to explain to Matteo how different the city was – visually as well as in terms of atmosphere – to the towering grey and glass skyscrapers that loom over me in Washington DC. Matteo nodded and seemed to understand my frustration with trying to describe it in Spanish. “Es diferente,” he said knowingly. My eyes were focused beyond the window, trying to capture mental snapshots of every building, every person we passed, and every sign so that I could later recall them at will.

Capital of the Incas

Cusco, which lies 11,000 ft above sea level, physically required some getting used to; after a few days of eating light to stave off the altitude sickness, my two friends and I explored this incredible region, rich with natural and cultural history. Starting with the city of Cusco itself (also spelled Cuzco or Qusqu, in Quechua), the most striking is the mingling of native and European cultures – where traditional Andean dress contrasts with the Conquistador-erected churches that dot the city and dominate the city center. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Sight in 1983, the city itself is charming but generally serves as a base for exploring the surrounding area, welcoming almost a million visitors every year. As is often the case, it is the people which make the town, and we certainly felt welcome.

Walking through the town we noticed at one point we were being shadowed by a small boy about 6 or 7 years old whose short legs moved quickly to match our pace. He carried a wicker basket filled with small bags of popcorn. His dark brown eyes caught mine causing me to stop abruptly in my tracks. Bending down to meet his gaze, I pointed at the bags of popcorn and asked “Cuanto cuesta?” Not breaking his wide-eyed gaze he shyly held up his hand, displaying all five fingers – meaning five soles, about 50 cents. Without taking his eyes off of the 5 sol coin I’d placed in his outstretched palm, he handed me a bag of popcorn. Walking away, I looked back to wave only to see him still transfixed by the coin. With a joyful smile, he excitedly grasped it tightly between his two small fingers.

Because November is not the peak tourist season, we stuck out and were met with smiles and curious stares. Naturally this also meant being accosted at every corner by people hoping to sell souvenirs. Women dressed in the traditional, vibrant Andean clothing, with baby llamas wrapped and tucked under their arms, urged us to pose for pictures with them – for a fee of course – while young men would try to entice us with beautiful watercolors of Cusco. After initially wanting to stop and talk to each person, it soon became apparent we would never actually get to see the city at this rate. We steeled ourselves, repeated “no, gracias” and tried to keep moving down the steep steps that led to the city center.

Rafting the Urubamba

Leaving the city, one is immediate struck by the stark natural beauty of the surrounding area. We chose to experience this as close to the ground as possible: by taking a horse back hack through some of the 16 Incan ruin sites surrounding Cusco and a rafting trip down the Urubamba River. The bus carrying our multinational group traveled along a two-lane road passing rows of maize and other crops, deep crystalline lakes reflecting the silhouettes of the Andean mountains, and sparsely inhabited buildings grouped into something vaguely resembling villages. The bus driver decided to entertain us with music videos, and after over an hour of the lesser-known greatest hits of the 80s, we gratefully piled out.

After donning our wet suits and practicing some basic strokes we headed down to the river, full of class II and III rapids, with a mixture of anticipation and trepidation. Our rafting guide’s enthusiasm was contagious, Rojo’s playful laugh echoed off the canyon walls, as we approached each set of turbulent rapids. Encouraging us by shouting out: Quienes somos? [Who are we?], he would pause and grin in anticipation of our rather meek and uncertain: “Los mejores?” [the best?]. But our confidence grew with each subsequent rapid conquered. The sky stretched cloudless and soft blue above us, warming and drying us after each soaking wet splash. Our nervousness faded as Rojo kept us laughing and motivated to keep paddling the three hours down the Urubamba to base camp.

Lost City of the Incas

Machu Picchu had captured my imagination since I was a child. A four-hour train ride took us down to Aguas Calientes – a small town at the foot of Machu Picchu. A bus took us up the winding dirt track to a trail leading up to the ruins. During the short walk through a dense forest, our anticipation mounted with each step until we emerged on top of a small hill to find Machu Picchu spread below us. Known as the Lost City of the Incas, the citadel was built in the mid-1500s, at the height of the Incan Empire’s power. While awe-inspiring as a feat of engineering, architecture and evidence of the rich culture, it was particularly remarkable for having not been plundered by the Spanish. Abandoned a mere 100 years after its construction, it was protected by the dense jungle that grew around it and only discovered by western scholars in 1911. Rocks meticulously piled on one another form solid walls that wind up and down the mountain terraces. The foundations and walls of buildings, with roofs missing, still stand erect and resolute, and the mountain Waynu Picchu is the picturesque backdrop of what remains of this architectural wonder.

Groups of school-age Peruvians scrambled over the ruins, posing on the rocks and snapping pictures at every turn. While resting on a rock and soaking in the sights and scenes around me, I was approached by a group of young Peruvians. One of them held out a camera and said something quickly in Spanish. I reached for the camera so that I could take a picture of them. The kids laughed and shook their heads, “No, no, con tigo!” I laughed in return, “You want a picture with ME?” How could I say no? So they gathered around and we posed on the rocks with remnants of Machu Picchu barely visible behind us. I had traveled to Peru to experience the history and pay homage to the wonders of the Inca Empire, yet the warmth, hospitality and smiles of the Peruvian people became the snapshot of the country that’s captured in my memory.

You can learn more about Bobbie’s travels on her blog.

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