One of the best places to explore the Great Wall is from Beijing, as there are many sections of the wall one can easily get to in a day-trip from the city. The most popular section of the wall to visit is Badaling. It was the first section of the wall opened to tourists and is located only 70km from Beijing. However, the section has been heavily restored, and has been reported as being very commercialized and crowded. Regardless of the crowds and commercialization, it’s still the Great Wall.

Getting Some Fresh Air

A less popular section of the wall is the focus of this article, the Jinshanling and Simatai sections of the wall.

Jinshanling is one of the best preserved parts of the Great Wall with many of its original features still intact. Simatai is also well preserved and because of its steepness offers amazing photo opportunities. They are both fairly close to Beijing and typically not crowded. The best way to experience these sections to walk the Great Wall of China from Jinshanling to Simatai.

The hike between Jinshanling and Simatai is about 10.5km. If you’re of average fitness level, take a good amount of pictures and a lunch break, the hike should take about 5 hours. There are numerous tour companies offering this hike as part of a tour, and your hotel/hostel could probably arrange a trip as well, but why pay the extra money when you can do the hike easily on your own for less money.

Getting to Jinshanling

Start your day early and plan on this being an entire day’s activity. You’ll start at the Dongzhimen Long Distance Bus Station (东直门长途站) – on Subway lines 2 & 13. I’d recommend trying to get to the bus station by 8:00AM (if not earlier).

Bus No. 980 is the bus you will take to and from Beijing. The bus drops you off in Miyun County and the fare is 15RMB.

Warning: You may be the only person on the bus that gets off at the Miyun County stop. When I went, I was. It feels wrong, but this was the correct stop.

Once at Miyun, you can hire a taxi to bring you to the foot of Jinshanling. The price should be around 50-100RMB per car. If the price is much higher than this, please respectfully bargain.

Bargaining tip: If they’re recommending a large (unnecessary) van, see if they’ll take you in a smaller car for less.

Admission Fees

Because you will actually be hiking through 2 different sections of the wall, you’ll need to pay admission fees for both Jinshanling and Simatai.

Jinshanling admission fee: 50RMB (Mar. 15 – Nov. 15); 40RM (Nov. 16 – Mar. 14)
Simatai admission fee: 40RMB

Upon arriving at Jinshanling via taxi, you’ll pay the admission fee immediately. The Simatai ticket, however, will be paid during the middle of the hike. You won’t realize you’re entering a new section, you’ll just suddenly be confronted with a person selling tickets. This is normal and not someone trying to rip you off .

The Hike

Walking the Great Walk of China is gorgeous and full of innumerable amounts of photo opportunities. When you first step on to the wall, it will be difficult to put down your camera — try though, as you’ve got a long hike ahead! There will be plenty of great photo opportunities ahead.

The hike offers varied terrain. There will be a little bit of climbing at some points, walking over loose gravel, as well as through parts that have been completely restored. There will also be some serious uphill and downhill as well. Make sure to wear comfortable shoes!

Towards the end of the hike, you’ll reach a beautiful green reservoir. You’ll need to cross a bridge over the reservoir, which will cost another 5RMB per person. This is the beginning of the east section of Simatai.

Completing the Hike

Once you’ve crossed the bridge and entered the east section of Simatai, it’s time to begin thinking about how to get down to the Simatai parking lot.

Option 1: After crossing the reservoir, you’ll arrive to the 2nd watchtower. There, you’ll find a footpath back to the parking lot. This is the least expensive (but most tiresome) option.

Option 2: Also from the 2nd watchtower, there’s an exciting zip-line down to the parking lot. The zip-line runs 35RMB per person.

Option 3: If you’re up for it, you can continue climbing to the 8^th watchtower after the reservoir, where there is a cable car to take you down to the parking lot. The cable car will cost 30RMB per person.

Option 4: If you’re really still full of energy, after reaching the 8^th watchtower, you can climb 4 more watchtowers. However, there’s no way to get down to the parking lot from the 12^th watchtower, so you’ll need to return back to the 8^th watchtower and take the cable car.

Getting Back to Beijing

Once arriving to the Simatai parking lot, you can again hire a taxi back to Miyun county. The price should be around 50-100RMB per car again. Remember to politely bargain to reach a reasonable price.

Once back to Miyun county, you can finally relax on the same bus no. 980 back to Beijing’s Dongzhimen Long Distance bus station. Again the fare will be 15RMB to return.

Other Tips

• If neither of these sections seem interesting to you, you may also want to check out Juyongguan and Mutianyu. Both sections are also close enough to Beijing to see in a day-trip.
• Bring a backpack and pack it with water and snacks. The wall is deserted at most points and there are not many opportunities to buy food and water.

Final note: Just to set the argument straight, no you cannot see the Great Wall from space.

Note from the Editor: Reports are conflicting on whether portions of the hike mentioned here are open. Regardless of your chosen route, be sure to check with your travel agent, tour guide or local accommodation to confirm your plans before setting out to walk the Great Wall of China.

Nova Scotia is very rural – and that’s part of the charm, so many stretches of land nearly untouched.  I encourage you to spend some time off the beaten path – which isn’t hard in Nova Scotia, just head towards the coast.    However, I’d like to point out a few Nova Scotia sightseeing highlights that you’ll find along your way.

Halifax

No doubt your Nova Scotia sightseeing will either start or end in Halifax, the largest city on the peninsula and home to both the rail terminus from Montreal as well as an international airport.  I love Halifax – it has a wonderful feel to it, though I suspect it’s quite different in the winter!  A few Halifax favourites:

• The Waterfront:  Halifax has one of the world’s longest wooden boardwalk waterfronts; it takes about 20-30 minutes to walk from one end to the other.  That is if you don’t stop for ice creams, beavertails (yum!), pizza, snacks, museums, boat and ferry rides, live music, coffees, and the array of other people and things tempting you.  What’s the rush?  You’ll want to spend a lot of time down here – it’s awesome.  FYI, for Titanic lovers, the Maritime Museum is a must.
• Art Gallery of Nova Scotia:  Worth going to just to see the Maude Lewis house.  This Nova Scotian painter made a powerful impact with her story and her gorgeous works – so much so that her entire (tiny) house is now inside the gallery.  Incredible.
• Citadel Hill and Point Pleasant Park:  Two opportunities to get some exercise.  Citadel Hill is, well, the huge hill in the middle of town that you can’t miss.   Point Pleasant is an enormous forest located on the edge of the harbour, popular for dog walking as well as for just getting some fresh air.
• Harbour Hopper:  Pretty much anyone who’s been to Halifax has been on this ride a half on land/half in water tour.  It’s informative too.  If you have children with you, don’t forget to go for a spin on Theodore Tugboat.

I could write an entire article about the food in Halifax – in fact, I will – but don’t miss out on a donair (originally from Halifax), or try nachos.  Anywhere.  It seems all the local restaurants are in a heated competition to win the coveted ‘best nachos’ award.

August is a great time to visit, as the city hosts their popular busker festival.

Wolfville

Heading to the west coast, your Nova Scotia sightseeing taste buds will get a kick out of Wolfville – that’s because it’s another mini-cultural centre of Nova Scotia.  Time your visit for a Saturday morning, so you can enjoy the farmer’s market, where vendors from all around the nearby villages come in to sell their wares (samples available!).  This includes some of the wineries, so it makes for a fantastic experience.

Wolfville is also a great place to watch the tides of the Bay of Fundy.  These are the highest tides in the world, and it is simply impossible to describe it (but I’ll try).  It looks as if a massive swimming pool is being drained/filled.  You really can see the shoreline filling up against the coast.  For the best places to see the tides, including the tidal bore (a huge wave that comes in with the tide), the Bay of Fundy tourism website has some excellent FAQs.

Along the main street in Wolfville, you’ll find no less than three coffee houses, several popular restaurants, art galleries, ice cream parlours, and other shops.  And don’t miss a drive up to the lookout, for some killer views of the bay.  As a university town, there’s no shortage of things to do.

Annapolis Royal

Another wonderful Nova Scotia sightseeing stop along Nova Scotia’s east shore is the small village of Annapolis Royal. When I mean small, I meant it – the town is nothing more than one street that wraps around a corner of the Bay of Fundy.  But what the town lacks in size it makes up for in hospitality.  Some things to do:

• Visit the rose gardens, some of the nicest and probably the largest rose garden in Nova Scotia.
• Walk around the hills of Fort Anne, the oldest fort in Canada.  Indeed, many of the buildings in Annapolis Royal, with their very traditional architecture, are some of the oldest buildings in the country.
• Have a coffee and a cake at Lucy Sweets, a wonderful old building with the best coffee in town.  Chat up the owner, Tina, who has some great stories about the people and history of Annapolis Royal.
• If you’re hungry, the Garrison House Inn is not only a wonderful place to stay, but they have some of the best fish in town.
• Walk along the boardwalk.  It isn’t obvious there is one, as it sits lower than the street level.  You can enter from behind the Kings Theatre or behind the Police Station.  Sitting on a bench here is the perfect place to watch the sunset.

Digby Neck

If you really want to get “out there,” then take your Nova Scotia sightseeing sights to the extreme and head down Digby Neck.  This “peninsula on a peninsula” juts out from the corner of Nova Scotia, and it’s a great place to see wildlife (whale watching is very popular) and enjoy Mother Nature.  If you go all the way to the end of the peninsula you can access not one but two islands – Long Island and Briar Island.  The lighthouses on the islands are just as iconic as some of the more popular ones closer to Halifax – and there are a few, as historically the area has been plagued by fog and shipwrecks.

Lunenburg & Mahone Bay

After Peggy’s cove, the most popular roadtrips from Halfiax to enjoy some Nova Scotia sightseeing would have to be Lunenburg and Mahone Bay, and for good reason – they’re beautiful bay villages.  Lunenburg is an old German town with some incredible architecture – the colours and vividness is stunning – but you’ll also be able to enjoy some great accommodation and hotels as well as food.  Top recommendations included the Lunenburg Arms to sleep, and to satisfy your hunger try Sweet Expressions (coffee, cakes), Salt Shaker Deli (pizza, sandwiches), and Large Marge’s (diner food).  Mahone Bay is smaller but similar and is known for its iconic churches along the shore.  Don’t miss the back harbour trail in Lunenburg – and if you’re feeling overly ambitious, you can actually walk from Lunenburg to Mahone Bay.

Peggy’s Cove

A quick mention for a Nova Scotia sightseeing classic, Peggy’s Cove.  This is the most photographed lighthouse in the world – perhaps because it’s simple and sits on top of a sheet of rock that juts out quite haphazardly into the sea.  In fact, it is slightly dangerous, as the waves can come pounding and take anyone standing on them out to see.  The village is very, very touristy and very crowded, but it is worth a walk around to take in some of the older fishing houses.

Guysborough

My tip for the best place in Nova Scotia, sightseeing or for just relaxing, has to be Guysborough, also know as the Authentic Seacoast.  This little village has so much hospitality you won’t know what to think – from the people who wave at you as you drive through town, to the friendly faces in all of the local establishments .  Some highlights:

• If you like cakes and treats, then you’ll have to stop into the Days Gone By bakery and ask them for what’s fresh.
• The Rare Bird Pub has some tasty pub food – but they also have a great view of the habour, where you can watch all the happenings going on.  There is often a live music, sometimes inside and sometimes the children playing traditional fiddles down along the marina.
• I’m not a golfer, but you don’t have to be to appreciate how beautiful Osprey Shores golf course is.
• The best restaurant in Nova Scotia, I must say, is at the Des Barres Manor, a beautiful manor home turned B&B. With an award-winning wine list, incredible hospitality, and one of the most comfortable beds ever, it is worth the drive to Guysborough just to experience this gem.  (You can buy the sheets in their craft shop / art gallery on Main Street. I’m ordering!)

The Cabot Trail

No Nova Scotia sightseeing list would be complete without a final stop in Cape Breton Island, the island just north of the Nova Scotia mainland and connected by a causeway.  I don’t think there’s a bad view anywhere in Cape Breton – you’ll either have beautiful lakes on one side of you or blue ocean on the other.  From the world’s biggest fiddle in Sydney to stepping back in time to the 18th century at the Fortress of Louisbourg, Cape Breton is amazing.  By far the biggest and best attraction is the Cabot Trail, which is highly regarded as one of the world’s most beautiful drives, even more dramatic than other popular drives like the Pacific Coast Highway.

Editorial Disclosure:  Portions of this trip were sponsored by Nova Scotia Tourism.  This sponsorship in no way affects the editorial content of this piece.

Shop

As mentioned, Dusseldorft is known as a shopping and fashion capital, so where else to start your Dusseldorf sightseeing but with a shopping spree? Königsallee (the “Ko”) is one of the oldest streets, with the most expensive shops and where the city established its reputation.

Shadowstrasse is where you’ll find all of the best German department stores, whereas Carlstadt has flea markets, art, and antiques.

Where the city really shines though are in its futuristic shopping malls, which are the perfect way to get your materialistic fix. Ko-Galerie, Sevens (pictured), stilwerk, and Schadow Arkaden are all worth a look – even if you’re a window shopper.

Walk

You know how much I like to talk, so its no surprise my favourite Dusseldorf sightseeing experience is to just walk along the Rhine.  From the old town, head across the Rheinknie Bridge, then stroll along the empty park on the waterfront (which has fantastic views of the city across, naturally), then head back across into town on the Oberkasseler Brdige.  On a sunny day, there’s nothing better, really.

Eat

It is probably no surprise that many come to Dusseldorf, sightseeing their way through sausages!  Though I suggest you look for the “restaurant with a queue” on the main street, the Schweine Janes.  Here you can try “Schweinehaxe” – pork knuckle.  It’s far tastier than it sounds, trust me.

Schwarzwaldstube is a top restaurant – their sister restaurants elsewhere have made it on lists of the best restaurants in the world.  Otherwise, you can’t go wrong with a sausage with curry-flavoured ketchup (a currywurst).

If you’re kind of sick of meat-and-potatoes, then pop into Pizzeria Lupo for fresh, made-to-order food fired pizza.

Drink

The most noteworthy Dusseldorf sightseeing spot, and the reason this city is on the itinerary of many backpackers, is the Längste Theke der Welt - or the “longest bar in the world.”  That’s not to say that Dusseldorf has some enormous oversized pub, but there is one street in the old city (altstadt) which is lined with bars from start to finish.  The drink of choice is Alt, a dark beer you can only get in/around Dusseldorf.  Füchschen, Schlüssel, and Uerige all brew their own beer on premises.    Not alt beers are the same, so I suggest you try a couple to see what you think.

See

Another popular Dusseldorf sightseeing option is architecture.  The city has both new and old buildings that are fairly noteworthy and worthy of visiting, if nothing else for the great photo opportunity.  Recommendations include:

• Gehry Buildings:  Frank Gehry is well known for his architectural work, such as the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao or the Dancing House in Prague.  He also has a series of buildings in the “Media Harbour” area of Dusseldorf,
• Burgplatz: This central square has several interesting architectural sites. First have a look at the city monument, a complicated piece of artwork that explores a lot of the history if the city.  But crowning the square is the Dusseldorf City Hall.  Built in the 16th century, it is now a parliamentary building.
• Rhine Tower:  This not-exactly-beautiful tower defines the Dusseldorf skyline, and the viewing deck offers 360 degree views – worth going on a clear day, for sure.

Play

Dusseldorf sightseeing doesn’t get any crazier than in July, when the carnival comes to town. It’s the Biggest Fun Fair on the Rhine, and that’s actually it’s name – Größte Kirmes am Rhein. It is held mid-July for a week and features balloons, fair rides, lots of beer,good carnival food, and a finale fireworks display on the last evening of the fair.    It’s incredible and a must-experience for the summer.

If you find yourself here in Christmas, Dusseldorf also has a very lovely Christmas market.  Well worth the visit if you’re also in Cologne (who have the best Christmas markets in Germany, in my opinion).

Photo Credits: Retinafunk, Dirk Hartung, emptyhighway, Bernt Rostad, Flippio Salamone, FvS

Hiking the Gatineau Hills (Quebec)

If you do nothing else and take no other Ottawa day trips, please promise me you’ll go for a hike up in the Gatineau Hills. Second only to Parliament Hill, this is one of the best things to do in Ottawa, without a doubt.  Start off your tour with a visit to the Mackenzie King Estate, with its tea room and unusual “ruins” (Mackenzie bought them and put them here – beautiful yet strangely out of place).  Then hit the trails – King Mountain Trail is a good one for several scenic points in a little over an hour’s walk.  There are also several lookouts.  In winter these trails become some of Canada’s best cross country skiing.

Burritts Rapids (Ontario)

Certainly one of the most unique stops on my tour of Ottawa day trips was the tiny, tiny hamlet of Burritts Rapids. The city itself is on an island in the river!  The best way to experience this village is to park at the Burritts Rapids lock (Lock 17), and then walk along the island trail until you arrive into the town.  It’s the strangest experience – you’re walking along in a quaint, silent forest and all of a sudden you’re in the middle of a town.  The town is pretty quiet too – there’s a city beach about the size of one beach blanket, several Victorian houses, and an old swing bridge that connects the town to mainland.

Wakefield (Quebec)

For the best village feel and to get away from the city on your Ottawa day trips, I can’t more highly recommend Wakefield.  It’s a very small village that is mostly known as the terminus for the stream train which runs from Hull (more info).  For me the real Wakefield highlight is the Old Wakefield Inn, a luxury hotel that serves up fantastic breakfast right along the stream that once powered this mill.  Once you’ve eaten, be sure to walk around the property – it’s gorgeous.  The other must-see is the covered bridge (pictured); these seem to have fallen out of fashion, so it is wonderful to see one that is looking in pristine shape.

Merrickville (Ontario)

Merrickville claims to be “Canada’s prettiest village.”  While I’d say that’s a long shot (I’d have to give that title to Victoria), it still makes the list for great Ottawa day trips.  The lock here is quite active, and the village itself has several crafty shops and stores, perfect for a souvenir for yourself.  There’s a classic English pub and other eateries as well, but if you can manage some decent weather, a picnic on the tables near the canal are the perfect choice.

Smiths Falls (Ontario)

If you want to see an alternative vision of Canada’s capital, consider Smiths Falls for one of your Ottawa day trips.  Smith Falls was once one of the places under consideration for the Canadian capital due to its central railway access and convenient location near the border of Ontario and Quebec, the two more powerful provinces of the time.  Today railway fans can enjoy the railway museum, otherwise relax and watch the Rideau River rushes by.

Mattawa (Ontario)

Mattawa means “meeting of the waters,” as it is where the Mattawa and Ottawa rivers converge.  It’s one of the nicest Ottawa day trips because the city heavily promotes itself with a number of attractions, including wooden statues of many of the historic figures in this area.  Mattawa as a settlement has been around for quite some time as it was a popular stopping point for explorers of days gone by.   The last weekend of July is Voyageur Days, where you can enjoy live music and fireworks.

Bonnechere Caves (Ontario)

Tired of being above ground?  Then get some perspective and head into the earth in Eganville in this one of the more experiential Ottawa day trips.  Discovered in the mid 1800s, these caves were the talk of curious explorers, but at the time the caves were filled with water and technology did not permit them to investigate further.  The caves are known for their fossils; want to make the experience perfect?  Bring a picnic lunch to enjoy after your excursion down under.

All photos by author except Smiths Falls (seaan), Mattawa (CP Storm), and the Caves (greencolander)

Remember, Niagara Falls straddles the US/Canadian border, so for the most flexibility, bring your passport.  In America, you have close access to the water as well as a wonderful hike, whereas in Canada you have shops, hotels, and many of the non-falls attractions.  I recommend you stay on the Canadian side and walk over to America.  Also, I would recommend not to take an organised tour.  It is easy to get around Niagara, and I don’t feel most of the tours offer great value for money, when you could see what you want, when you want, and for as long as you want on your own.

Here were a few of my favourite things to do in Niagara Falls.

Get Wet

If you’re coming to the falls, you should go and get wet (even if its cold and raining out).  It’s just part of the experience! And where else in the world can you take a boat cruise that drives up underneath a circular waterfall?  One of a kind experience, for sure.   I did all of the main experiences so I could report back on the best ones:

• Maid of the Mist (America or Canada):  By far the best of the things to do in Niagara Falls, and one of North America’s oldest tours!  Yup, it is just like you picture it – you dawn cheesy ponchos, and the boat drives up into both of the falls.  Crazy.  The American falls is mostly mist (it is rocky underneath so you don’t get that close), so you get these wonderful rainbows everywhere.  Then you hit the Canadian falls, and you get…wet.
• Cave of the Winds (America): This is quite cool as you get to stand, literally, underneath the Bridal Veil Falls.  You get soaked, even if you don’t go up on what’s called the hurricane deck.
• Journey Behind the Falls (Canada):  There is an opportunity also to get wet here, but the most interesting feature for me are the “windows” that are actually behind the falls.  You can’t go near the window opening, and once you see the water pressure, whirling wind gusts, and incredible noise coming from these tunnels, you won’t want to.

If you’re feeling even adventurous, you can also grab a jetboat from Niagara on the Lake which will take you into the massive whirlpool situated a couple if miles downriver.

Get Scared

As we established last week, one of the scariest places on earth is Niagara’s Nightmares Factory, which is a couple of blocks away from Clifton Hill.  There are a lot of scary things to do in Niagara Falls, but without a doubt the factory is your best choice.  The venue is an old coffin factory, and there are some not-very-nice things going on inside.  The majority of visitors don’t make it though. By that, I mean, the shout out the secret word, and are allowed to exit.  Not to imply that people go in and don’t come out.  Although, it wouldn’t surprise me…

Get Fat

Clifton Hill is where much of the non-falls action awaits – you can’t miss it, it is a street lined with restaurants, shops, amusement attractions and other things to do.  Niagara Falls comes alive here, but it can be slightly hectic;  one of the best parts I think the food.  I tend to prefer non-chain restaurants on my travels, which you will not find on Clifton Hill.  However, I’m hard pressed to give this the thumbs down given the number of coffee shops (Tim Hortons, anyone?) and fantastic ice cream parlours in just a couple of blocks.  Be sure to pop into Crunchicreme, which is just on the opposite side of the Ferris wheel from Tim Hortons.  There you’ll find tasty ice creams topped with pretty much anything you want.

Get Informed

I am still blown away by the fact that thousands of years ago, Niagara falls was about 8 miles away from where it is today.  Yes, I do realise that the volume of water pounding over these falls is nothing short of inspiring, but still, once you drive along the Niagara parkway for miles and miles of gorge, you start to appreciate just how powerful water is.

Even more incredible is the fact that much of the water flow over the falls is now diverted into power generation tunnels.  These massive plants – shared by both the US and Canada, both in terms of building space (one on each side of the gorge) as well as sharing the power generated – have a network of tunnels, reservoirs, and turbines that just boggle me.  You can learn all about it at the Sir Adam Beck Power Plant tour – a must for things to do in Niagara Falls.  You might not realise, but you’ll have been driving over the power plant for a minute or two before reaching it.  It’s huge!

Get Away

Pictured above is Goat Island – the piece of land that separates the American Falls (to the left) from the Canadian Falls (to the right).  As above, I suggest that you stay in Canada but walk across to visit Goat Island.  This is on most of your typical ‘things to do in Niagara Falls’ list, but I’d like you to delve a little deeper.  On the bottom of the island you have several lookout points where you can stand nearly on top of the falls – all but a narrow railing separates you from raging torrent – but head to the north.  A walk around the island doesn’t take more than an hour and a half, and yet, you’ll find no one away from the big viewpoints.  At the top, you can actually step into the water unencumbered, so if you were wanting to take a barrel ride, this is the place to jump in.

If you are really struggling with the busy atmosphere of Niagara, though, head up along the Niagara Parkway (a wonderful drive) to the quaint village of Niagara on the Lake.  It can be busy too, but nothing like the Falls.

Get Some Perspective

Last but not least, why not enjoy some heights while exploring the things to do in Niagara Falls?  The easiest way would be to stay at one of the high rise hotels, which are fabulous – I stayed at the Fallsview Hilton, which I can highly recommend.  I’ve mentioned the Ferris Wheel briefly above, but you should also make the mandatory stop to the summit of the Skylon Tower, where you get some great views of the entire region.  You can’t spend the night up here, but you can have dinner, and you should come during the day and purchase a ticket which will also allow you to come back up in the evening.  The daytime shots are a must, but the evening/sunset view is also nice.

The tower was the perfect place to reflect on my Niagara adventure, and to realise that despite my romantic impressions of barrel rides over the falls juxtaposed against garish highrises and nightlife, the truth is that the Falls is the perfect holiday getaway.  All sorts of things are together in a tiny area, so you can just pick and choose what you want.  Though I have to tell you, there’s fine for going over the falls in a barrel.

Editorial Disclosure:  Portions of this trip were sponsored by Visit Ontario.  This sponsorship in no way affects the editorial content of this piece.

All images copyright by author except power station (Wikipedia Commons) and haunted house (Venue Photo)

Mystra, all but a deserted village near the Peloponnese town of Sparta, has its beginnings in Greece’s Byzantine period.  Personally, I’d rather enjoy the Classical or Bronze Age sites of Greece.  But my love for Greece is neverending (Delphi travel and the Ionian Islands being personal favorites), but if your dead mother has an opinion, you listen.  I packed my bags and picked up my ticket for the five-hour trip to Mystra at the bus station in central Athens.

Getting There – Part of The Journey

Part of the Mystra experience is about getting there.  The main road hugs the sea coast as it heads north of Athens before crossing a deep crevasse that slices through the Isthmus that connects the Aegean Sea to the Gulf of Corinth – this is called the Corinthian canal.  As you pass the ancient city of the same name, the views open up for a fantastic photo opportunity of Acrocorinth, a beautiful mountain where once the famous courtesan-priestesses of Artemis went about their daily work from the Goddess’ temple.

Leaving these sunny shores, the highway heads inland as the scenery out the window changes into a mountainous, stony terrain covered with towering pine forests.

The first stop is the legendary Sparta (Sparti). It sits in a low plain, surrounded by high, snow-capped mountains, covered with orchards, citrus and olive groves, and vineyards.  Those of you familiar with Greek history will know that the Spartans were known as the most fierce and fearless warriors of the old world, but despite their aggressive nature, little is left of ancient Sparta.  I have time to enjoy the Museum and stroll along flag-stone pathways as wild flowers and oleander bloom amongst the ruins.

A band of children join me on the walk to the Sanctuary of Artemis Orthia, which is by  the river, asking me to take their picture while wanting to know why I was there.  My thoughts drifted to those legendary Spartan youths who, when reaching puberty, were sent on a rite of passage this very shrine to pay homage the Goddess.  When they reached the altar of the temple, the youths were flogged until their blood covered the stones.  While some did not live through the severe beating, the ones who did became worth of adulthood and started their extensive training to become warriors, like famed Leonidas, a  Spartan hero. Yes, he is one of the men portrayed Hollywood-style in the movie 300 – you won’t find Gerard Butler here, just a serious imposing statues perched outside the nearby stadium.

The Mystra Mystery

Neo Mystra is a charming wee village of old-fashioned stone houses topped with red-tiled.  In amongst the houses and twisted lanes there are bulging rose gardens and magenta bougainvillea pouring across the white-washed stone walls and balcony trellises.  Yellow flags bearing the double-headed eagle of Byzantium fly from every wrought iron balcony, and each lamp post is stamped with this golden symbol.

In the center of town, at the cross-road, I come upon an ancient oak tree, its thick trunk entwined with roses.  It has grown around the spigot of a spring where cold drinking water still gushes.  I fill my water flask here before venturing up the hill to the hold city, just as pilgrims might have done in medieval days.

Built on the slopes of Mount Taygetos, the Spartan’s sacred mountain, the ruins are two kilometers up the mountain.  One of the most important cities of Byzantium, Mystra was home to nearly fifty thousand Spartans and was occupied until the early 1800s.  Villas, monasteries, restored palaces and churches are thrown about the steep, uneven mountainside.  The gabled houses had balconies and decorative arches and are the best preserved examples of Byzantine city houses.  On the peak of the hill, Castle Myzithras pokes the sky like an imposing warrior ready for any trouble.

The weather is bright and sunny this May morning – late May or early June are the best times to visit, as the wild flowers are in full bloom.  I meander along narrow streets and pathways and step through arched lanes.  Except for an occasional tour group of Greek seniors (few foreigners have caught on to the mystery of Mystra), the medieval city lays silent and still, disturbed only by the trilling of birds, humming of bees, and a faint sound of music echoing up the hillside.  Wild flowers bloom everywhere.  I feel as if I am on the edge of some unknown paradise.

Later, I sit in the courtyard of a monastery soaking up this atmospheric feeling.  Gradually, a composition I used to play on my mother’s piano comes to mind: In A Monastery Garden. I realize that this setting – with its roses, potted plants, flowering shrubs and burbling fountain – is exactly as I used to imagine as a child.  Inside the chapel, I sit on one of the little wooden seats along the wall and think of my mother whose presence I have felt all day, mulling over her mysterious presence, and thank her for showing me this wonderful slice of Greek history.

Photo Credits: tilo 2005, alun salt, stefg74, byrdiegyrl

Downtown Architecture

Without question, my number one top reason to go Buffalo sightseeing is for the architecture.  WOW.  I had a tip that you could do a great architecture walk around downtown, which I ended  up doing and was just blown away by the interesting places.  Buffalo’s architecture spans several decades and styles, so things from the world’s first electrified buildings to ornate domes and carvings that wouldn’t look out of place in Italy or Spain are on every corner.  Visit the tourism center before you depart to pick up a free brochure that will highlight the buildings of interest.

Public Parks

Just north of downtown you have a couple of public parks that are excellent for a long walk or stroll.  You can bring a picnic lunch, or just grab an iced coffee on your way down the trail.   My Buffalo sightseeing vote has to go for Delaware Park, which has the benefit of having the Buffalo Zoo on one end, and two of the city’s main art galleries on the other.  It’s separated into to halves by a major street, which has tunnels and pedestrian overpasses, so it’s easy to get across.

Elmwood Village

Elmwood Village has been consistently voted as one of America’s most liveable neighborhoods, and once you visit, you’ll see why.  Every building is brightly coloured and decorated, people seem happy and are smiling (wonder if they’re like that in winter?), and you can wander down the main street from shop to gallery to cafe.   The Buffalo sightseeing starts at the top of Elmwood Avenue, where you have two major art galleries, The Burchfield Penny Art Center and the Albright-Knox Art Gallery. From there heading south, you’ll hit great places like Spot Coffee (highlighted in our best restaurants in Rochester piece) and Sweet Tooth (milkshakes anyone?).

Give yourself plenty of time to walk Elmwood Ave.  Linger.  Poke your head in every storefront that looks interesting. You have no idea who you’ll meet.

Food!

At no point during your Buffalo sightseeing tour will you go hungry – this town knows how to eat.  Highlights:

• Anchor Bar:  This establishment is recognised as the home of the original Buffalo wings.  I’m not a huge wings can, so I can’t claim to note any difference in taste, but some people swear by this place.  You should check it out.
• Pearl Street Brewery:  When I asked around for suggestions on places to eat in Buffalo, this brew pub came up consistently, and that’s because they have atmosphere, tasty food, and fresh beer all in good supply.  What’s not to like?
• Cafe Aroma:  Another hot pot, located up in the previously mentioned Elmwood Village.

If you can make it in July, you’ll be able to enjoy the Taste of Buffalo extravaganza.  Two streets of downtown Buffalo are turned into a foodie’s paradise, and it makes it disturbingly easy to sample all of the wares of Buffalo kitchens across town.

Where To Stay

Regardless of your Buffalo plans, I strongly recommend basing yourself in downtown for the best Buffalo sightseeing experience.  There are several hotels in the area, but my stay in the Comfort Suites couldn’t have been nicer.  It’s just next to the mini-metro line and bus routes, and the hotel itself recently went under major refurbishments, so my room (which was, I’m afraid to say, almost bigger than my flat here in the UK) was very comfortable after a busy day of exploring Buffalo.

Sidetrips

So, if you want to base yourself for a few days in Buffalo, sightseeing doesn’t just end there.  Three top Buffalo daytrips that you can easily accomplish:

• Niagara Falls: The falls are not more than a half an hour from Buffalo, and if you haven’t seen them, you simply must!  Remember that Niagara lies on the American/Canadian border, which makes things tricky.  If you are driving from Buffalo, it might be easier to drive and explore the park on the American side, then walk across with your passport, which is required, and get the great view from the other side.  To do everything, though, you’ll need a couple of days.
• Lockport:  Lockport is an Erie Canal town, and quintessentially Americana, a short 45 minute drive away.  This area is known for great walks, good food, and just relaxation.
• Rochester:  It’s about 90 minutes away, but if you are in the area, I do suggest some Rochester sightseeing as well.

Editorial Disclosure:  Portions of this trip were sponsored by the State of New York tourism.  This sponsorship in no way affects the editorial content of this piece.

All photos by author.

You Know You Want to Take a Tour, but Which One?

Charleston’s sprawling historic district with its high density of pre-revolutionary built homes would be remarkable in Europe; in the United States it is nothing short of miraculous. From the minute you get to town, for better or worse, your focus will be directed towards horses and mules clomping around pulling carriage loads of visitors. On board charismatic guides expertly navigate Charleston’s narrow, cobblestone streets and car traffic, while telling stories of the city’s colorful past. Soon thereafter your hotel concierge will insist that your visit will be incomplete without going on a carriage or motorcoach tour. Frankly entering Charleston can feel like entering the gates at Disneyland.

The truth is many of the most intriguing aspects of Charleston sightseeing aren’t accessible by carriage or motorcoach. It is a city of nooks and cranies and quirky details, of hidden alleys, odd words on tombstones, and small architectural enhancements. It is a city of manicured gardens located behind wrought iron fences that were designed to be peered through.

If you’re up for it, a good walking tour is the best option. The city’s compact size loans itself perfectly to exploring on foot. These days there are not just general walking tours available from various operators, but more specific tours that run the gamut of interests from ghosts to culinary to Gullah culture. Having been on several, I can say that without a doubt, the smaller guides listed on the Convention and Visitor’s Bureau website, led by multi-generational Charlestonians, are the most worthwhile and entertaining – and you know what you’re getting is real.

History Buffs will definitely not want to miss

In April 1861 the first shots of the American Civil War were were fired by Confederate artillery on Fort Sumter. Visible from various parts of Charleston’s eastern waterfront, Fort Sumter is accessible only by water. Boats depart regularly from downtown Charleston in Liberty Square and Patriots Point.

Patriots Point, is also well worth some time for its other attractions. Located on the opposite side of the harbor from downtown Charleston it is also home to the Naval and Maritime Museum Complex which includes the U.S.S. Yorktown aircraft carrier as its centerpiece.

Nearby, but accessible by car is Fort Moultrie, where against all odds in 1776 a small band of South Carolinian soldiers were able to temporarily fend off the attacks of a large fleet of British ships. The fort has been restored, portraying various periods in its military history. Civil War buffs will also want to visit the Confederate Museum housed in Market Hall on Meeting Street back in downtown Charleston.  Sightseeing, history-style doesn’t get better.

Attention Serious Shoppers

Here’s a Charleston sightseeing plan where only serious shoppers should apply:

1. Visit the old city market, (located behind aforementioned Market Hall and Confederate Museum) where African American women of Gullah descent who make the area’s intricate seagrass baskets can be found busy at work, while displaying their handiwork amidst the usual kitsch, souvenirs and a occasional fashion bargain or two.
2. Stroll King Street. If you are of the antique crowd be sure not to miss the antique shops at the south end around Queen Street. When you need a break, try to grab a table at Surmets Corner at the corner of King and Wentworth for people watching and sweet potato fries.
3. If visiting on a sunny Saturday, many Charleston artisans without storefronts sell their creations each week at the Marion Square Farmer’s Market.
4. Hand over your wallet to someone for safekeeping from yourself, and ooh and aah by walking through the shops in and around the Charleston Place Hotel.

Food Lovers want to eat well

Drawing from the area’s unique influences, over the years Charleston has come into its own as a culinary capital. There are plenty of splurges, James Beard award winning chefs, and places so cool you need someone to point out to you that they’re even there. Here are several diverse choices based on cuisine, price and geography recommended for visitors who are in town for a few days – these will keep your energy levels up for all that Charleston sightseeing.

• Splurge: Peninsula Grille, food, atmosphere and service are all amazing
• Southern Genteel: 82 Queen, an old, traditional favorite
• Hip: Fuel, affordable Caribbean cuisine, with a fun vibe and located in an old gas station
• Breakfast or Brunch: Hominy Grille, longtime favorite offering Southern comfort food with a twist. Besides you’ll be able to go home and explain what hominy is to your friends.

How about if I want to do something else?

It’s hard to put all of the great Charleston sightseeing options into a box.  Stroll, bike or jog the sea wall that protects the antebellum mansions of the Battery. Biking the city suits its languorous pace and lack of elevation. Rentals are available at several places including Charleston Cruisers that will even deliver your bike right to your door. After you spot the new Cooper River Bridge, which just happens to be the longest cable stayed bridge in the Western Hemisphere, you may want to to do as the Sunday afternoon masses do and cross it on your bike too and take in the view from the top.

Another way to see Charleston’s steeple dotted skyline from a unique perspective is from the water. Various boat trips are available including sunset and dinner tours departing from both downtown and Patriots Point. Nature lovers will not have to stray far to experience the areas biologically diverse waters and ecosystems. Coastal Expeditions offers guided kayak tours of Charleston Harbor as well as of the area’s tidal salt marshes. Also worth looking into, the Charleston Aquarium offers special behind the scenes tours of various programs such as its loggerhead sea turtle rescue program several days a week by appointment

Where to stay?

There are plenty of hotels to choose from, but bed and breakfasts located “South of Broad” in a residential neighborhood feel off the beaten path even though they are a short walk to most everything. They often include off street parking, are taxed at a lower rate, and most importantly the experience will be infinitely more authentic, in a place where, judging from the guy in the pirate suit sauntering around the market selling ghost tours, authenticity is increasingly challenged.

The Cabell House, located steps away from most spectacular homes on the Battery, offers tasteful, laid back luxury with a charming and knowledgeable innkeeper and assistant. Just opened for business and located on the western side of the peninsula, The Cottage at 9 Limehouse Street (pictured above in the food section, actually) is a 900 square foot renovated boathouse situated on the sprawling property of the William Pinckney Shingler House, one of the most remarkably preserved Greek revival homes in Charleston, with the bonus of special insights and conversations with the native Charlestonian innkeepers.

And finally, When to go?

Summers can be hot and crowded, but the Spoleto Festival, one of the world’s finest arts festivals held for 17 days each June is worth planning a trip around, and help make for a lively arts scene year round. Home and garden tours in the spring and fall have been a Charleston staple since long before the days of haunted, culinary and carriage tours. Then again Charleston dresses up elaborately well for Christmas.

On this one hard to go wrong!

Photo Credits: Margo Millure, designatednaphour, Margo Millure, Margo Millure, Charleston CVB, Margo Millure

Food and Fun on Main St

There is nothing more special than a traditional American small town Main Street full of vibrant shops that have interesting things in them.  Interesting, I said, not tourist tat or boarded up storefronts.  In Canandaigua you definitely get the real thing, and it’s a long street, so as one of the first things to do in Canandaigua, you could easily spend the better part of a day exploring it.  Some of the best shops that I enjoyed:

• Wicked-ly Sent: a soap store.  But not just any soap store; I’m not a big fan of bar soap, but I have been trialling a few bars and I’m convinced.  Simple scents and you feel really nice and clean afterwards.  Plus the owners are real charmers – be sure to introduce yourself when you go in.
• Simply Crepes:  Should just be called Simply Delicious, because everything on their menu – from the mini crepe starters to the crepe mains and the utterly incredible crepe desserts are just that, simply delicious.  Yum.
• F. Oliver:  I’m not even sure how to describe this experience.  It is an oil and vinegar shop, but with innovative (read: bordering on strange) flavours such as rasberry vinegar or mushroom oil.  You are offered a tasting when you go in by the friendly staff who are passionate about challenging your tastebuds to new horizons.  I went in hating balsamic vinegar, and left with my head spinning on the possibilities of these two liquids.
• New York Wine and Culinary Center: Hard to believe, but the state of New York’s culinary center is here in Canandaigua.  You can enjoy the best of the state with beer tastings, wine tastings, cooking classes (which have some of the most state of the art facilities I’ve seen), and of course enjoy a meal in the fantastic on site restaurant. All of the offerings are very good value for money for what you’re getting – and the staff are a dream.
• Sweet Expressions: An old fashioned chocolate shop whose owner actually understands chocolate. Tell her about your likes and she’ll guide you to the best chocolates for you.  It was here that I was formally introduced to the chocolate-covered potato chip.  I do believe we will have a long, fruitful relationship.
• Wegmans:  Ok, so it’s technically not on Main Street (down a bit further), and people are laughing I’m sure that my favourite thing to do in Canandaigua is to sit in a grocery store, but honestly: a glass of wine and watching the sun set on the outdoor patio at Wegman’s for Friday night jazz was wonderful.  What’s not to like?

Culture Vultures in Naples

Just south of Canandaigua Lake is the village of Naples.  It is kind of a hippy village full of friendly faces and where you’ll find several really nice shops and places:

• Imagine Moore:  Imagine Moor is the best winery in the Finger Lakes.  They have great ethical values, their packaging is wonderful, and the wine is superb.  Their rose is a top recommend, but I liked pretty much everything I tried.  And to boot, their Naples tasting room has a wonderful view from the terrace.
• Dallywater’s:  Dallywater’s has been voted the best tea room in New York state.  I can’t help but agree – the ice tea I had was probably the best iced tea I’d ever seen.  A couple runs the shop, and being from the UK, they know what they’re doing.  Next door is an art gallery, so you can sip tea and enjoy art all at the same time.
• Aritzanns: I love the ethos behind Aritzanns, which is to give all the local artists in the area a single space to exhibit, therefore giving everyone more potential for a sale by pushing all the visitors into one spot.

Relax in Bristol Harbor

If all these things to do in Canandaigua are tiring you out, then why not take a break and chill out at the Lifepath Spa in Bristol Harbor?  It was probably the best spa experience I’ve had; you start out with a wholesome meal at the restaurant on site, and then you can do some exercise, either hiking or one of their fitness classes.  You wrap it up with a message or facial.  From the friendly and well-skilled staff to the incredible site – they call Bristol Habor ‘the million dollar view’ for a reason – a visit to Canandaigua isn’t complete without a stop at Lifepath Spa.

If you’re still hungry after all that, in South Bristol you’ll find a tasty little place, the Brown Hound Bistro.  It’s next to Arbor Hill Grapery, another great stop for wine tasting and everything-grape-related all under one roof.  (Seriously.  Grape jelly, grape candles, grape EVERYTHING.)

Walking and Boating the Lake

I suppose it goes without saying that one of the things to do in Canandaigua is to go out on the lake – after all, that is kind of why the town is here.  And it is the second most expensive lakefront property in the US (second only to Lake Tahoe).  As of writing, the city’s main lakefront attraction, the Canandaigua Lady, is out of commission, but you can still go out on the lake with Captain Gray’s, which departs from the city pier (just down beyond the New York Wine and Culinary Center).

Otherwise, I highly recommend just a simple stroll along the path which runs from Main Street and down wrapping around the north end of the lake.  It’s not very far – those commercial properties start right back up again – but at dusk it is a delight.  And you can top off the walk with a visit to Scoops, for some of Canandaigua’s tastiest ice cream (be sure to get a topping!).

Get Some Perspective and Go on a Hike

Canandaigua and the Finger Lakes are a hiker’s paradise. Fresh air and some exercise is another one of the things to do in Canandaigua that is surprising, because there are so many amazing trails.  A few of my recommendations:

• Ontario Pathways:  These former railways have been transformed into excellent walking trails – nice and easy, too, and they go on quite a distance, so you really can get a good walk in.  Best bang for your buck is to start from Phelps, where you’ll find some spectacular waterfalls (not tall ones, but the shorter ones with lots of layers) just on either side of you.
• Ganondagan: this site is a historic place for the Native Americans.  It’s also great for hiking, with well marked trails that also have an interpretive story to go along with it.
• Grimes Glen:  from Naples, this hike takes you pretty much up into three waterfalls.  I didn’t have time to do this one but the photos from my companions proved that you get a little wet, but it is worth it for the experience!

It’s not a trail (though there are trails that run through there), but a must see-sight is the Outlook (pictured), towards the south of the lake.  It has a wonderful view of the lake and the hills on either side.

Relax at a B&B

After all of the sightseeing and checking out the things to do in Canandaigua, its time to relax.  My top recommendation is the Abner Adams in Bloomfield, which is just a few minutes out of town.  The friendly innkeepers, Lynda and Bob, have tons of knowledge in the local area, and cook up a fantastic breakfast, including their own blend of the local coffee, Finger Lakes Coffee Roasters.  The rooms are well appointed, everything from those wonderful beds you just sink into, to whirlpool tubs.  And the house itself is simply gorgeous – the perfect place to finish off your Canandaigua experience and reflect on what’s so appealing about the Finger Lakes lifestyle.

Editorial Disclosure:  Portions of this trip were sponsored by Visit Finger Lakes.  This sponsorship in no way affects the editorial content of this piece.

All photos by author except Bristol Harbor (courtesy Visit Finger Lakes) and Abner Adams House (courtesy venue).

East Avenue Action

East Avenue, which runs right out of downtown, is a great place to start Rochester sightseeing.  At the start of this street, you have a fantastic coffee shop, Java’s, and just a block or two from there, another coffee shop in an old car dealership building, Spot.  Between the two are several shops, including a funky record store.  You can get your buzz on here and then a couple of block over to Strong Museum of Play, a great place for both adults and children: kids can have fun with hands-on exhibits, and adults can learn about the act of play and see some of their old favourite toys in the hall of fame.

Further down and just off East Ave is the  George Eastman House.  For photography buffs of any kind, this is a must see – even if you don’t like photography, you’ll love the gift shop.  I loved learning about the eccentricies of Mr Eastman himself, and was blown away by facts like this museum has a copy of the original Wizard of Oz (and the camera that filmed it), as well as the cameras that took several other very important photographs in history.  From there don’t pass up a stroll through Memorial Art Gallery, which has an impressive collection of what seems to be just about one-of-everything.

Lake Ontario Exploration

Next its time to take your Rochester sightseeing on a detour north to the city limits at Lake Ontario.   Charlotte-Genesee lighthouse is the big draw here, and one of the most photographed attractions of the city – you can see why! The original Abbott’s ice cream is here along the lake, along with a number of other very tasty restaurants (cheeseburgers, anyone?).  You can sit in the park and watch the waves go by, or brave it on the small sandy beach.  Or just stroll and let the winds coming off the lake clear your thoughts.

Chilling Out on Park Avenue

Similar to East Ave, Park Ave is another street full of great cafes, restaurants, and shops perfect for Rochester sightseeing.  (It’s also got a huge parking influx, so be prepared.)  Top choice is Stever’s Chocolates; they have everything… seriously.  And it’s one of those old fashioned chocolate places that makes their own stuff and the kind of vintage feel to it.  Really special. Spin Caffee is a great place to sit for a cup of Joe, but there are tons and tons of places, so don’t hesitate to explore and pop into whatever jumps out at you.

See the Cinema Scene

Rochester has a thriving theatre scene, which I think lends nicely to its cutural status.  Little Theatre is a must – I think it needs to be added to our list of unique movie theaters – as they offer a tasty roundup of foreign and independent films.  Their cafe is also charming and damn good food.  Eastman Theatre is your other must stop for cultural ensembles; associated with the Eastman School of Music, the venue has just underwent restorations and is looking as impressive as ever. Unfortunately,  you cannot sit in Mr Eastman’s seat, but there doesn’t seem to be a bad seat in the house.

Go Over the Falls

High Falls is a Rochester sightseeing absolute without a doubt can’t miss.  It’s because this massive waterfall in the middle of town is why Rochester is here – you see, this provided the muscle for the mills that started the economic boom.  There’s a bridge built especially for viewing, but it’s a pretty steep drop – you won’t want to go over these falls in a barrel.  Having said that, daredevil Sam Patch did manage a run over Niagara Falls, but then died in his second attempt to go over High Falls – his first was succesfull but didn’t raise enough money.  Whoops.

Jazz It Up

Jazz Festival is held every year in Rochester in the middle of June, and to many in the industry, it’s become one of the best-in-class events.  Stages are setup all across downtown and many streets turn pedestrian, making Rochester a very welcoming place to relax with some tunes and soak up the scene.  I was so sad I missed it – not to say I didn’t enjoy the Rochester sightseeing, I certainly did – but Rochester Jazz Fest seems to be a top event.  To stay in touch with next year’s events, visit the Rochester Jazz website.

Other Rochester Sightseeing Tips

Rochester has loads of other stuff going on.  You can:

• go golfing
• take the kids to the zoo or waterpark
• ride a boat on the river
• see some great minor-league sports (baseball, hockey, soccer, lacrosse, and more…)

Rochester as New York’s Other Culture Capital?  Quite possible.  Rochester with something for everybody?  Most definitely.

Photo Credits: milan81, snowgen, pixelnaiad, mike.hanlon, Andy Hayes, Ben Golub