I am Amsterdam is the slogan for Amsterdam’s official tourism bureau. It’s a slogan I can completely relate with. As you may know from my previous interview with Yankee in a New World, I lived in Amsterdam for several years and consider it my spiritual home. It is the sister I never had.
The Jordaan Neighbourhood – Copyright Andrew Hayes
After my long weekend down with the Dutch, I was reminded all the many things that made my Amsterdam experience. But she’s taught me a lot about the world and reminded me of the finer aspects of life to be enjoyed.
Cafe Culture
There is no place in the world that’s better for cafe culture than Amsterdam. The city’s “brown cafes”, named so not only because of the typical dark-panelling on the walls but (if you’re in a good cafe) there will be dust on the lights or on the windowsills. That’s because these places have withstood the test of time and why change a good thing – although I can see some might find the dusty a bit off-putting. Anyway, some of my favourites include the beer tasting at the Arendsnest, where they’ll make you a personalised tasting if you describe to them your likes/dislikes. It even comes on a serving tray with crackers and a glass of water, as if you were in a wine tasting in Burgundy. Every beer served at the Arendsnest is brewed in the Netherlands (one of the establishment’s main selling factors), but if you want Belgian beers, you should try In De Wildeman or Gollem. And what tourist visit is complete without bending over to drink the over-the-top full glass of liqueur at Wynand Fockink. Stop by one of these places. Watch the people. Talk to your friends or your neighbours about what’s going on in their lives. Meet some new people. The world goes by.
Bikes Rule
Amsterdam is the biking capital of the world. (Sorry, Copenhagen, but you come in a very respectable second place!) There are more bikes than people, and the city’s layout is aimed to make the cyclist’s life easy. It can be intimidating for those not used to it, but my guide to biking in Amsterdam over at Europe Up Close might help. Some of the bets places to cycle are Westerpark (think Vondelpark but without the crowds and loads of weird modern art), Amsterdamse Bos (the city’s back yard), or along the river Ij. Take a map with you, but just head for a direction and wander. If you get too lost, just follow a tram line back into town, or look for the red and white signs to direct you. There are many areas left unexplored by most, but these offer some great insights into Amsterdam. Back in the day, whenever I needed some time to think and reflect, I hopped on the bike and started pedalling.
Never afraid to be Quirky
The Dutch would call Amsterdam gezellig, which they say doesn’t translate into anything in English, but reluctantly they will tell you it means cosy. I think the one adjective that best describes Amsterdam to me is quirky, but not in that negative way it is normally used. Where else in the world can you visit an entire museum dedicated to a man who slashed off an ear in the name of his craft, before cruising down a canal drinking beer and cheese, as you float past prostitutes in windows. It’s certainly a unique place. I just love the edgy feel of the Stedelijk Museum (currently closed but reopening by next year), or the juxtaposition of a majestic cathedral against the surroundings of the red light district. Houses are painted in garish colours, people leave their curtains open to passers-by, and sometimes things can feel downright unusual here. Soak it up – maybe it will inspire you, give you some perspective, and it might just make you a better person for it.
I’ll stop there before I get all teary-eyed. What’s your view of Amsterdam? Den of Iniquity or Open-Minded Paradise?
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I love the artistry and architecture of Amsterdam. It seems as if many aspects of the city and country are represented by some kind of museum, and they’re all fascinating. You could spend a month there and barely scratch the surface. That’s the problem with Amsterdam… there’s never enough time, and always something to go back for!