As one of the most sensitively developed tourist spots within Spain, Lanzarote makes an ideal holiday destination for anyone who enjoys dramatic and unspoiled scenery. As despite welcoming close to 1.5 million visitors a year, Visitors could be forgiven for thinking that tourism has barley touched the island once they venture outside the three main tourist resorts.
This delicate balancing act can largely be attributed to a local artist called César Manrique. Who campaigned against over development on the island just as tourism was first taking off during the late 1960´s. Successfully securing an outright ban on all high rise buildings and ad hoardings that remains in place to this day.
The Lanzarote Outdoors
As a result Lanzarote remains much as nature intended. Which is just as well as the island is blessed with more than it’s fair share of natural wonders. The best known of which is the Timanfaya Volcano Park – home to a surreal, lunar like landscape that was forged during enormous eruptions in the 1730´s.
The terrain here ranges from fields of black molten lava to fire coloured cones, off set by huge lumps of basalt statuary. With the entire region occupying about a quarter of Lanzarote´s total land surface.
The road running from Mancha Blanca towards Timanfaya – which is a back route to the National Park – is one of the most striking drives through the volcanic territory. It is also the easiest way to approach the park on busy days, as there is rarely a queue to get in to Timanfaya from this direction.
The curvaceous shapes of the three hundred craters that populate Lanzarote can be best viewed collectively from high up. In particular, there is a look out spot at the top of Las Nieves, which gives views of the southern half of the island that almost resemble a dreamscape. To reach this impressive natural viewing point, you should be on the LZ-10 that runs between Teguise and Haria.
As the road climbs the massif of the Peñas del Chache, just after the rural village of Los Valles, there is a signpost indicating the Ermita de las Nieves off to the left. This is a small chapel perched on the hilltop, the terminus of a former pilgrimage route by locals who would visit the spot to pray for rain. At the edge of the cliff on which La Ermita sits are vistas that look down at the horseshoe shaped bay at Famara and across the island, taking in all the volcanoes.
A little further along the LZ-10, another ‘mirador’ or look out post can be found in the island’s only wood. Called ‘El Bosquecito’ or the little wood, it is planted with Canarian pine trees and acacias. Many of the trees were damaged during the tropical storm of 2005, but there has been an effort to replant the area recently. It is a favourite spot with locals during exceptionally hot weather and there are barbecue pits and tables provided for picnics.
The turning for the wood is the last left hand exit from the LZ-10 before it begins its descent into Haria. The dirt track is not ideal for cars to negotiate, so it is usually best to park where the tarmac ends and approach the wood on foot. Along its further perimeter, there are stunning views over the edge of the Famara cliffs to the water below. And parts of the neighbouring island of La Graciosa are also visible from here.
Attractions Inspired by Manrique
Quite apart from the unspoilt scenery of the island, there are also a number of tourist attractions that manage to combine both natural elements and man-made design to excellent effect. These sites were either created by the island born artist and architect, César Manrique, or have taken their cue from his inspirational work.
Now regarded as ahead of his time, Manrique’s concern in relation to Lanzarote’s development was that the delicate eco-system of the island needed to be protected as much as possible. Not only did the resorts have to comply with strict controls over the size and height of their buildings. But also each attraction that he created had to work in harmony with the environment in which it was placed, minimising the aesthetic disruption between nature and man.
All attractions are still well attended to today, with the Timanfaya National Park and the Jameos del Agua the most visited. Whilst the former home of actor Omar Sharif offers a slightly alternate take on Manrique’s art, with the house and gardens based on the theme of ‘A Thousand and One Nights’.
Tunnels and caves and nooks and crannies typify this incredible place, which looks out across the centre of the island. Situated in the village of Oasis de Nazaret, it can be reached by turning off the LZ-10 just before you reach Teguise, at the signpost marked ‘Museo’. Called LagOmar after its famous former owner, it is now the site of an upmarket restaurant and cave-bar, museum and gallery, and should be on the itinerary of anyone planning to explore Lanzarote.
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I loved Lanzarote when I visited; that stark volcanic landscape really appealed. I was even more blown away driving through the Teide region of Tenerife – have you been there too?