I was recently invited to Durham City in Northeast England for their UK Peace and Tranquility Week event. While I did leave feeling peaceful and more tranquil, I also left reflecting on the wonders of the Durham experience. I think no one better describes it than urban planner Thomas Sharp in his vision for Durham entitled “Cathedral City – a plan for Durham:”
“Nature has presented Durham with a site which makes it one of the guide-book features of Western Europe. Were Durham nothing but a site, it would still deserve to be a show piece: but it is still much more, a cathedral city, a university and a County town”
A rower on the river just off the city centre
Architecture – “a Cathedral City”
Durham Cathedral
If you love architecture then you’ll love Durham. Durham Cathedral is what puts the city on the map and it dominates from every direction. It’s the sight easily recognised as the Edinburgh-London train approaches, and once you see it you’ll know why Bill Bryson called it the “best cathedral on Earth” and a BBC poll voted it “Britain’s best loved building.” From the sweeping views from the top of the tower (and the narrow staircase leading to it) back down to the baby bats swirling around the courtyard, Durham Cathedral is a must see.
Next to the cathedral is Durham Castle, a gorgeous little place with wonderful examples of Norman architecture. The castle is most intriguing in that it’s used as student accommodation! It is, of course, haunted, likely increasing its appeal with the student crowd even more. One of the most peaceful views of Durham is leaving the castle and looking at the cathedral just across the green, lush and tidy Palace Square. (Don’t miss stopping for cakes in the Almshouse right on the square).
The Outdoors – “a County Town”
Crook Hall & Gardens. An English Paradise.
Despite being a bustling city, it doesn’t take much to understand Thomas Sharp’s comment about Durham being a “county town.” You don’t even have to leave the city centre to enjoy the rural outdoors.
Crook Hall and Gardens
Crook Hall & Gardens is probably one of the grandest mansions and gardens in the entire United Kingdom. It’s simply wonderful, and I’ll tell you why: attention to every little last detail, from benches and chairs that match the garden themes, to little flourishes and touches throughout the household. It’s full of personality, just like the owner Maggie Bell, and it’s a place that will leave you wanting to come back for more and more. With a full events calendar running throughout the year, there are plenty of reasons to stop by here during any visit to Durham. Here’s a video that was made the night I was there:
Botanic Gardens
Once of the largest gardens in Europe, Durham City’s botantic gardens sits on the edge of the Durham University campus and yet it once inside you’ll think the near city is miles away. With woodland paths, outdoor art, and several greenhouses, you can spend a whole afternoon here. For Peace & Tranquility week the botanics hosted a Harp Recital, which was the proverbial icing on the cake.
River Walks and Vennels
You can even get that rural, outdoor feeling in the compact city centre of Durham, which is actually a small peninsula surrounded on three sides by the River Wear. Along the wear there are a number of river walks passing by old mill houses and old bridges. One bridge, the Knightsgate Bridge, was actually built by Ove Arup, the man who designed the Sydney Opera House. You can tour the river by boat: paddle your own or take a guided tour.
But it’s not just the river that’s relaxing, it’s the winding city streets too – there aren’t many of them. But hidden behind the shop fronts and old pubs are a tiny secret: the vennels. A vennel is just said to a ‘dark alley’ in the Geordie accent; they remind me a lot of the Edinburgh close.
Culture – “a University Town”
Being a university town, there’s all the nice amenities that you’d expect that appeal to both students and weary travellers.
The Marketplace
Right off the main square, the indoor marketplace is just like the shopping mayhem you’d see in Asia or continental Europe, but in a far more relaxed setting. Grab a slice of pizza or a spot of breakfast then explore the aisles packed with goodies. There’s no haggling in this market but that shouldn’t stop you from friendly chat with the local merchants.
Food and Drink
There’s no doubt – you won’t go hungry or thirsty here. From the tasty cakes of Vennel Café (yes, hidden in a vennel) and Treats Coffee Shop to the haunted Shakespeare tavern, Durham has it covered. There’s even a champagne bar as well as the a cheap-n-cheerful Fabios which also has an upstairs wine bar. Many of the best places are popular with the student crowd, but you won’t feel crowded or overwhelmed.
Countryside – “still much more”
Fishing pond at the South Causey Inn – check out that view!
If you have a car, there’s loads of options outside Durham City to explore. A good spot to setup base camp is in South Causey, where you can easily explore attractions like the open air Beamish Museum, visit the adorable birds at Beamish Wild, or walk the gorge to see the Causey Arch, the world’s oldest existing railway bridge. But don’t miss fishing with the friendly folk at the South Causey Inn, where you can spend the night and enjoy the day’s catch in the wonderful downstairs restaurant/pub.
There’s the County Durham coast, with unspoilt beaches, plunging cliffs, and blue ocean as far as the eye can see, or the waterfalls and hillsides of the Durham Dales. You can check out the Penshaw monument, a Greek relic that reminds you of Edinburgh and is visible for miles around. Or even the Angle of the North, a massive metal structure that you can see from the train and from the nearby motorway.
Peace and Tranquility
Durham City from atop Durham Cathedral
It is pretty easy to see that Durham City and the surrounding County Durham is a pretty inspiring, peaceful place to visit. And with easy train access on the mainline Edinburgh-London service and a quick jaunt to the Leeds-Bradford airport, it’s easy to get to. Bill Bryon who, as we noted early is very enamoured with Durham City, perfectly sums up this, one of the UK’s most relaxing locales:
“a perfect little city.”
A special thanks for all the hospitality to those I met while in Durham City, especially Matthew, Susan, Joe, Lizzie & Amy!
All photos Copyright Andrew Hayes except Durham street photo by Shaun Garrity
Disclosure: Portions of Andy’s travel were sponsored but in no way affect his editorial viewpoint of this experience.
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