Travel takes planning. At least when the destination is a major city like London and the time is limited. Know when the museums are open, what is available at the half price ticket booth, where the latest hot spots are for dining. As a totally obsessive organization freak, that’s what I’ve always done. But his time, other than booking the hotel, my planning started by listening to our friendly American Airlines steward between New York and Heathrow. My travel companion and I appreciated his advice—and the nice glass of wine he brought us from first class.
On Arrival…
Navigating Heathrow is always an experience. The natives speak English, generally understood by Americans, but figuring which signs and arrows to follow takes more navigational skills than I have under the best of circumstances. Most planes coming in from the former British colonies land in Terminal 3, thankfully smaller than monstrous Terminal 5. A long twisting walk down stairs and through various tunnels ends in a somewhat confusing maze of entrances. On the left is an information counter for purchasing rail passes for zones 1 and 2 plus the extension from the airport and to the right is a big tube map and entrance gates. We’d chosen our hotel, a Holiday Inn, for its location close to the Gloucester stop on the Piccadilly and Circus lines to avoid dragging our sleep deprived bodies and bags any further than necessary. Relief was finding our neighborhood was well chosen with good accessibility to a food market for snacks, and the tube entrance less than a ten-minute walk from the hotel.
A FirstDay…
It didn’t take long to realize I’d made some mistakes in packing. Of course the white athletic shoes, universal mark of the American in Europe, stayed home. The color of my wardrobe was correct—proper black—but the style was pretty old. So, with nothing preplanned…. we hopped on the tube up to the Notting Hill station, walked toward Portabello, imagined what the Sunday market is like (this was a Wednesday) and stumbled into the Romanian thrift shop. An hour or so later I left with a pile of clothes, still black of course, at bargain prices, even with sticker-shock high exchange rates. But now I won’t have the natives staring and giggling behind my back.
Properly dressed it was time to do some sightseeing. Unlike my more limited experiences, finding something new in London was a challenge for my friend, but Chelsea was an area unknown to either of us, and a London Walk was conveniently scheduled for that afternoon. London Walks are a great tourist institution and at seven British pounds for two hours of entertaining information, they are a bargain. This time I learned about the great residents of Chelsea, from Hans Sloane and Oscar Wilde to Eric Clapton. There is a connection to the crown ranging from Thomas Moore’s statue in front of Old Chelsea Church to the Manor House where kings and queens, both modern and beheaded, lived. The Chelsea Royal Hospital, founded in 1694 by Charles II, is still the home for many old soldiers. Plus I also found a pair of black leather gloves at the Red Cross resale shop just perfect for the damp chilly London afternoon.
With only a couple of nights in London, checking out some new, trendy restaurant would be fun, but between the shopping, sightseeing, and weather, just traveling back “home” sounded like enough for the day. Besides, there is a Waitrose between our tube stop and the hotel. Beautifully prepared take-out foods, a nice bottle of wine, and some fruit for middle-of-the-night jet lag snacking is the most appealing option for an exhausting unplanned day.
Saving the Budget After Shopping…
Tourist London can be the greatest bargain or the biggest credit card sinkhole. Hours in some of the world’s greatest museums cost no more than the refreshments needed to sustain one’s energy level. Britain was the last of the great empires, and the remnants are everywhere. There is no cost for walking along Whitehall past Parliament and 10 Downing Street. Catch the tube to Trafalgar and watch the show around the fountain. Explore he National Gallery, the Tate, and of course the British Museum–all free.
Not free is the London Eye. Still controversial after more than a decade, it is (sometimes grudgingly) acknowledged as a wonderful way to experience the glory of London. On my second day of this very unplanned short trip, the sun shone, the air was crisp and clear, and the views on the London Eye spectacular. The price was not too outrageous (ask for either student or senior discounts). Our capsule was filled with people from all over the world, trading cameras, and asking total strangers to take their picture. After the 30-minute ride, everyone exits as if old friends.
Also not free is a proper afternoon tea. I’m convinced it was developed as a much-needed respite for tired tourists, not local workers. After going all day, the timing is perfect, late afternoon. A proper afternoon tea does not need to be in an elegant hotel or country estate. Our refreshing repast was in the crypt of St. Martin-in-the-Fields. If lucky enough, it is possible to catch an afternoon rehearsal (free), and then retire to the crypt, only temporarily, of course. Judging from my experience, the great giftshop, featuring all things cat, is a substantial source of “donations” to the church and helps sustain a bit of history. Best of all, after I returned home, my kitty Inky loved her gift.
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I’ve decided that London is my next travel destination, to look up some old family history from the area. It’s always nice to read personal accounts of the city.