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The Real Ibiza

July 19, 2010by John McElborough

UNESCO world heritage city. Some of the finest dining and most unique boutique hotels anywhere in the Mediterranean. Over 50 blue flag beaches. These might not be the first images which come to mind when somebody says ‘holiday in Ibiza’ but this is the picture of the White Isle that the Ibiza tourist council and homegrown tourist businesses in Ibiza have been working hard to put front and centre among holidaymakers in Europe – in a word, the real Ibiza. Meanwhile Ibiza’s better known side of world famous nightclubs and cheap cocktail bars has been thriving, enjoying a resurgence in the popularity of dance and electronic music which provides the soundtrack for the Ibiza clubbing scene.

the real Ibiza
If Ibiza was a person, they’d be Jekyll (and hyde)!

The truth about Ibiza is that these two personalities have been co-existing in a mostly harmonious fashion since mass tourism arrived in the 80′s. While there’s certainly friction points, like the new highway which did a great job of connecting the two sides of the island (perfect for clubbers travelling to out of town venues) but destroyed some of the best views over the island, for the most part there’s no reason you can’t enjoy Ibiza’s calm, cultural, family friendly side without ever seeing the night scene.

In our look at things to do in Ibiza we’ll explore Ibiza’s alternative side, the side you’re less likely to see on a television documentary but might be more likely to remember.  Welcome to the Real Ibiza.

Ibiza’s Best Sights

the real Ibiza

Ibiza old town - Dating back over 2000 years Ibiza’s Old Town or Dalt Vila is the most iconic sight on the island. Set within fortified city walls, built in the 16th Century, the walk through the town to the Cathedral at the top will take you through winding cobbled streets and courtyards, past restaurants and bars before being rewarded with the best view out over Ibiza’s new town. The ascent is steep in places and disabled access is difficult although not impossible. Make sure you break up your visit with at least one visit to the quaint cafes, classy bars and romantic restaurants which are housed within the walls of the old town.

Santa Maria Cathedral – set within the walls of the old town right at the top the cathedral features stunning Gothic architecture, rivalling that of some of the famous Cathedrals on mainland Spain. Admission is free.

Atlantis Quarry – This ancient quarry has become a popular sight with tourists due to the carvings made on the walls by Ibiza’s hippy residents. The trail to Atlantis isn’t the easiest. The quarry lies opposite the little rock island of Es Vedra on the southern tip, accessible from Cala d’Hort. The walk will take you about 90 minutes there and back so its a good idea to visit around dusk when its a bit cooler and stay for the sunset which is spectacular at this part of the island.

Caves of Can Marça - Another popular sight which capitalises on Ibiza’s incredible natural scenery. Previously used by smugglers the caves are now fully converted into a tourist attraction with guided tours in a number of languages and a sound and light show at the end, which for many may distract from their natural beauty but is the only way to explore this unique sight. The caves are located in the north of the island in the town of Puerto San Miguel.

Visit Formentera – The peaceful island of Formentera lies just a short 30 minute ferry ride from Ibiza and is one of the best ways to spend a day during your Ibiza holiday. The best way to explore the island is on a scooter, which you can rent from La Savina where the ferry docks. Several ferry operators service the route which departs from Ibiza ferry port, Ibiza Town.

Shopping & Markets

For shopaholics Ibiza has plenty to offer but you’ll need to know where to look. Ibiza Town is the best place to look for quality designer boutiques, claiming a greater density of boutiques per square kilometer than anywhere else in the world (the fact Ibiza Towns only about 1km across probably helps!). The best places are mostly tucked away off the main streets which run off the waterfront and through the town. The areas easy to explore on foot and most stores stay open late into the evening, although you may find smaller places closed mid-afternoon for siesta.

If designer clothes aren’t your thing (or don’t suit your budget!) Ibiza has lots of lively markets to explore. The ‘hippy market’ is the most famous, and has as a result become as much of a tourist attraction as a place to shop. You can browse for arts and crafts, homemade clothes, jewellery and furniture or just wander through the streets and enjoy the alternative vibe. The hippy market happens each Wednesday of the summer months at Punta Arabi in the resort of Es Cana on the east coast, north of Ibiza Town.  Besides, these items are a little more representative of the real Ibiza that expensive imports.

For serious bargain hunting one of Ibiza’s flea markets will be your best bet. The flea market at San Jordi has about everything you can imagine buying second hand, and a few things you probably wouldn’t want to, available for a few cents. The market is really popular so in high season arrive early to grab the best bargains (and get a parking space).

Retreats and Well-Being

Hidden well away from the party crowd and young families Perhaps Ibiza’s best kept secret are the numerous spas and retreats, mostly located in the north of the island. These tranquil places offer courses in yoga, meditation or tai chi suitable for all levels. Alternatively you can opt for a detox programme from 1 day to a week.

For more conventional relaxation you can always take in a treatment or 2 at one of Ibiza’s numerous luxury spas located in some of the upmarket hotels like Hotel Garbi and the Ibiza Gran hotel.  Find the real Ibiza and find the real You.

Diving and Watersports

the real Ibiza

Ibiza’s craggy and varied coastline has produced some of the best dive sites in the Mediterranean. Since 1999 the sea bed has been a UNESCO world heritage site, acclaimed for it’s numerous species of plants and tropical fish. Intro level divers can enjoy fun dives which take in the best of Ibiza’s underwater life with trips departing out of Ibiza Town port for sites on the east and south coasts. More experienced divers will want to explore the Don Pedro wreck just outside the port of Ibiza.

There’s plenty of other watersports on offer if diving’s not your thing. Estación Náutica in Santa Eulalia offers everything from snorkeling to water-skiing to sailing, making the most of Ibiza’s versatile waters and coastline.

Ibiza for Kids

The Real Ibiza is definitely family friendly.  Santa Eulalia and Es Cana are probably the most family friendly resorts in Ibiza. Portinatx, Playa d’en Bossa and the San Antonio Bay area are also popular with families traveling with young kids. Proximity to attractions is less important when choosing your resort than finding a decent ‘kid friendly’ hotel as you’re never more than a 30 minute drive from any attraction in Ibiza.

Aguamar Water Park -  in Playa d’en Bossa. By no means the best waterpark in Europe but plenty of slides and pools good enough to keep young kids entertained for an afternoon.

Play parks – Most popular holiday resorts in Ibiza have small play parks which you can use for free. Playa d’en Bossa has the best one.

Mini trains – If sight-seeing with the kids is a bit of a drag make it fun for them by taking one of the mini-trains which drive around the countryside taking in some spectacular views, which you can enjoy while the kids get a buzz out of the choo-choo! (http://www.trenturisticoibiza.com)

Aquarium – in San Antonio Bay close to Cala Gració the aquarium has been set inside a cave in the rocks making a unique setting to enjoy the decent range of Mediterranean fish species.

Beaches - For kids the best beaches are at Santa Eulalia, Portinatx, Es Cana as there’s plenty of facilities on the beach front, easy access and the water is shallow making it safe for swimming.

Places to Stay

the real Ibiza

30+ years of mass tourism means Ibiza has plenty of choice when it comes to accommodation. Most of the high-rise hotels which line the popular tourist traps of San Antonio, Es Cana and Playa Den Bossa are much the same faceless, uninspiring blocks which you’ll find in any European holiday destination. Prices have been driven down in recent years by competition but inevitably, in many, so have the standards. Move away from the main strips however and there’s plenty of unique accommodation options which will provide a more memorable base for your time in Ibiza.

Rural and Eco hotels

Set in Ibiza’s plentiful and idyllic countryside an increasing number of rural hotels are springing up which offer unique surroundings but luxury facilities with the added benefit of being ecologically sound like the Atzaro hotel set in an orange grove and Can Marti apartments housed on a 17 hectare ecological farm estate with a natural swimming pool and solar powered thermal system.

Luxury hotels

Ibiza has a good selection of top end hotels to choose from, mostly found in the Ibiza Town area. The Ibiza Gran is widely considered Ibiza’s best luxury hotel. Alongside all the facilities and pristine amenities you’d expect from a 5 star hotel the Gran also houses the islands casino. Entry is free for hotel guests. The Mirador de Dalt Vila is set within the walls of the old town, making it a fascinating location with unbeatable views. For families the Fenicia Prestige Thalasso in Santa Eulalia is the best 5 star hotel in Ibiza with a kids club and their own pool.

Spa hotels

Indulgence would definitely be considered one of Ibiza’s core values. This is reflected in the range of excellent spa hotels you can find on the island.  Aguas De Ibiza in Santa Eulalia is a family owned place with a reputation as one of Ibiza’s best spa’s while the fashionable Hotel Garbi offers a wide range of spa facilities free to hotel guests including a Finnish sauna and hydro-massage pool.

Best beaches

the real Ibiza

Ibiza has over 80 beaches for you to choose from ranging from over populated spots in tourist resorts to hidden treasures a short drive out of town. The best way to explore the beaches is on a scooter which you can hire in any resort across the island. If you’re not confident on a scooter car hire is the next best thing although some of the more off the beaten track beaches don’t have great access. Here is our pick of a few of the better spots – representing the real Ibiza –  if you don’t have time to explore them all!

Cala d’Hort - Located between the south western resorts of Cala Vadella and San Jose this small cliff backed beaches most enduring feature is the view out over Es Vendra which makes it a popular sunset spot. Like many of Ibiza’s best spots getting to
Cala d’Hort can be a nerve racking experience with a steep decent to the car park. Well worth it though!

Playa Den Bossa - The best of the in resort beaches, Playa Den Bossa is one of, if not the, longest beach on the island making it different things to different people. The club crowd congregate around Bora Bora beach bar which is well worth strolling past even if you don’t fancy staying for a cocktail (bring your earplugs) meanwhile the southern end of the beach, is far quieter and popular with families staying in the nearby hotels. The watchtower at the far end of the beach offers one of the best lookout points on this side of the island.

Cala Jondal - Near San Jose in the South West, a favourite with Ibiza’s rich and famous due to its relatively secluded location in a picturesque bay. Cala Jondal is a mixture of pebbles and sand with good snorkeling just off the beach. Its also a popular spot for families.

Eating and Drinking

For foodies, Ibiza has plenty of treats in store. As with any popular sun destination it also has its fair share of mediocre Irish bars, English pubs and run of the mill, something for everyone type Spanish run places. Doing your research before you leave and, better  still, getting recommendations from locals is the best way to hunt out the best of Ibicencan cuisine. Specialities from the real Ibiza include classic Mediterranean dishes like Paella and Tapas and fresh seafood is as much a way of life as it is a staple of the Ibizan diet.

For the most atmospheric and ambient restaurants head to Ibiza’s old town or for an authentic taste of the island the out of town beach front restaurants tend to provide the best setting to sample local delicacies. Here are some of our favourite places in what is by no means a definitive list. For popular places between June- September reserving a table is advisable, especially at weekends.

Bambuddha Grove - Offering Mediterranean cuisine fused with Asian flavours this family run place is as much about the decor as the food with a stunning garden area with furnishings inspired by the orient.

Sa Capella - Set in a converted monastery in the hillsides out of San Antonio. Definitely one of Ibiza’s most characteristic eateries best known for its suckling pork.

La Oliva -
Our pick of the restaurants housed within Ibiza’s old town or Dalt Vila with seating on the cobbled street or inside the modest restaurant. Specialities include the Sea Bream and lamb shoulder.

El Rincon de Pepe – One of the cheapest but best places to enjoy traditional tapas in Ibiza this place is tucked away in the heart of bussling San Antonio. Its popularity with locals as well as tourists is testament to both its quality and value for money.

Photo Credits: viajar24h , VictoriaPeckham, Ilse Reijs and Jan-Noud Hutten, oksidor

John McElborough is editor of Ibiza holidays website loveibiza.net.

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