I wanted to take a minute to talk about a very interesting place that you should add to your list if you haven’t been: Tijuana, Mexico. It’s a border town, at the very northwest corner of Mexico and just an hour south of San Diego. Many people make the trip to Tijuana as a day trip from San Deigo, which is very do-able; you can drive and park in one of the many lots on the US side, or take the little tram that will take you right to the border.
Once you arrive, you just walk through a turnstile, and presto: you’re in Mexico. But it almost feels as if you’ve just followed Alice through the looking glass: what once was paved roads with expensive cars is now dirt and dust. Where there was relative peace along the California coast is now a hive of buzz and activity as children swarm around you to tempt you into a purchase and pickpockets look to empty you of anything not attached. It’s an interesting place that is not to be missed.
Princely Sights
When you arrive in Tijuana, it isn’t a pretty sight. It’s dirty, industralised, and awash with poverty. Many sights, in fact, reminded me of the dark and dreary backdrops found on many a Holywood blockbuster. Despite this, there are truly some outstanding things to do in Tijuana that don’t involve risking your life or being mauled by shopkeepers courting your custom. Some of my fave’s include:
- Tijuana Cultural Center: one of the few places in Tijuana that is truly bilingual. It seems to be a fair, unbaised view on the history of the Baja region and includes some excellent exhibits. It’s true – Tijuana does have a cultural side.
- Fine Dining: Ok, I have to admit – I had some of the cinnamon churros from one of the roadside stalls. I figured it was fried hot right in front of me, so what could be the harm? And the truth is, those churros were in fact princely – right from heaven. Even better than the chocolate churros in Madrid. But you don’t have to eat cheap in Tijuana, and if you want to avoid getting ill, it’s probably best to head somewhere slightly upmarket. Hot tips and recommendations:
- Cien Anos (“Mexican haute cuisine” – supposedly every recipe is over a hundred years old)
- La Cantina de los Remedios (traditional Mexican but worth going just for the decor and ambience)
- Cafe Sanborns (cheap and cheerful, a chain restaurant worth trying just for the experience)
- “Cerveceria Tijuana” – the Tiijuana Brewery. Sightseeing and great food all in one stop.
- Head for the spa. Believe it or not, there’s a whole underground network of day spas and retreats in the city. Some are attached to gyms and others are destinations in their own right, and best of all: princely treatments at pauper prices!
And the Paupers
Given the proximity of the US and the very different laws and economics at play, Tijuana is a bargain hunters paradise. I found some of the sights and shops reminded me of the bargain-basement discounts you could find on products in Brazil – so obviously something easier to access for Americans will mean a bustling trade. Good buys include:
- Mexican vanilla: my mum won’t cook with anything else. There are also other good groceries to be had, especially anything related to traditional mexican cuisine
- Silver jewellery: don’t pay a fortune though as much of it is fake
- Drugs (no, not that kind): you can get all sorts of drugs without a prescription here, some safe and some probably not-so safe. You won’t have ANY trouble finding a pharmacy here, as they’re practically in every shop and on every doorstep. Just be careful, Ok?
- Sweets: Pictured above, the sweets shops in Tijuana have hundreds of different treats of all shapes and persuasions. Any sugar tooth should check them out and experiment.
- Arts and Crafts. I suppose it goes without saying, as you’ll be sick of seeing it all by the time you leave, but there’s plenty of artsy stuff to pick up. Just try to find something a bit authentic, not the cheap plastic imported junk.
By the way, if you’re having trouble, here are some tips on how to bargain with a Tijuana shopkeeper.
A Note About Safety
While Tijuana isn’t a Mexican death trap, it most certainly isn’t the safest place in the world. There’s recent reports of violence and warnings against travel so you should always keep alert – speaking to your local accommodation or travel concierge before and during travel is a safe bet. Other sage words of advice:
- Don’t travel alone – take a friend or join another daytripper in San Diego if you can.
- Leave the expensive jewellery, watches, and other overt signs of wealth back at the hotel. This is not the place to attract attention.
- Avoid treading off the beaten path after dark.
- As hard as it might be, don’t give money to the beggars. It won’t go to good use, despite your best intentions.
- Bring cash. There are ATMs but they’re rip-off. (Just don’t bring loads of cash. It’s not an expensive place.)
- Be careful as to what you eat. Stick with bottled water and restaurants that at least look clean!
- Take a map. We’ve mentioned some recommended travel guides below which have a map in them. I didn’t take one and it got real confusing real fast!
And of course don’t forget your passport. Americans, take note – you don’t necessarily need a passport to enter Mexico but you’ll need it if you want to re-enter the US.
Photo by DavidDennisPhotos, maria.rocio, omar_omar
{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }
I am a huge fan of Mexican vanilla and stock up every time I am in Mexico. There is nothing better than Mexican vanilla (except maybe Madagascar vanilla and it doesn’t look like I will be in Madagascar anytime soon.) I had no idea that there were spas in Tijuana – very interesting.
You have given a nice overview of our fair city. Thank you.
More in-depth information can be found on The Real Tijuana, a blog that describes northern Baja California from the inside.
People who actually live within Tijuana-Tecate-Ensenada triangle address issues of local culture, recreation, cuisine, health care, travel, real estate, retirement, and history with the goal of making fronterizo tourism less intimidating and more rewarding.
The place is surprisingly peaceable, nothing at all like the bad press it receives. Personally, I’ve been here since the 1970s and I’ve only had my pocket picked once – by a woman from the United States!
Had no idea about the Vanilla – I’m heading to Mexico in Feb (though not Tijuana)- this is getting me excited! I’m going to be all over those Churros!
Good tips. I wish that I would have crossed the border when I was in San Diego, but that was years ago and I was young and foolish.
Every time we cross the border to Mexico for our mission trips, we bring back a bottle or two of pure vanilla for a friend or family member. Pure vanilla from Mexico is the best and my sis in law (baker of the fam) would only bake with it also.
We drove from LA (Jack was living there at the time) down Baja Mexico in 1998 and the drive was beautiful. Fancy houses along the coast were only $80K back then… talk about foolish.. should have bought one!
These are all great safety tips regardless of where you are in Mexico.
Thanks everyone for the kind comments – seems my mother’s Mexican vanilla secret isn’t so secret after all