Sensory Overload in Hong Kong
To be honest, I wasn’t sure what to expect when I touched down in Hong Kong’s beautiful Chep Lak Kok airport. I’m pretty sure that I didn’t expect to spend most of the week in the company of the Cantonese and rarely see a Caucasian (honestly – I’m not exaggerating – the British expat crowd hangs around in a decidedly small space). I also didn’t plan on feeling as if I was inside of a slot machine, watching the cherries and 7’s go rolling by so quickly that they all start looking the same. But that’s Hong Kong – a plain of sensory overload rising up from the South China Sea.
I wasn’t sure if Hong Kong would be a British version of China or a Chinese version of Britain. I am happy to report that, without doubt, it’s neither: it is just Hong Kong, Asia’s playground, a bustling hive of activity and (another) city that never sleeps.
Favourite Experiences
There were a few things in Hong Kong that I REALLY enjoyed. A few of them are courtesy of my gracious hosts, Jolene & Linda – thank you my friends!
- Catching the Junk Boat at 7:45PM Why do you need to get the 7:45 boat? So you can have one of the best seats in town for the 8PM light show! Yes, it has tacky music, but if you can look past that and silly fact that each of the buildings ‘introduce’ themselves, it is a great show. Relax on board with your complimentary beverage and take in the expansive skyline – it is huge and seems as though as it disappears in the distance that it might stretch all the way around the earth.
- Bargain at the stalls at the Temple Street Night Market I couldn’t believe this market when I saw it – it is an endless lane of stuff, from clothes to electronics to household products to souvenirs and everything in between. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, the browsing is worth it. Don’t go until after 7PM, as most vendors aren’t really set up until then. And be sure to haggle – they’ll expect it and working for the sale is all part of the experience.
- Having drinks at a pub next to the Mid-Levels Escalator I know, it sounds pretty weird to recommend a place next to the escalator, but wait until you see this thing. It’s a gigantic escalator running through some of the busiest places in Hong Kong, and riding it feels like you’re on some strange version of an futuristic expressway, except the cars are people. Staunton’s is a happening place where you can enjoy a drink out on the steps while watching ride by. Trust me – it’s fab.
The Not-So-Nice HKG
Ok, so the city does have a few mild irritations. The primary one for me is the pollution. It can ruin those sweeping views and vistas, as well as making you feel pretty ill. I felt like I had just smoked a massive cigarette while I was poking about in the various parks and waterfronts – and in fact I still have a head cold from it (or at least that’s what I’m blaming). I understand why people walk around with those surgical masks; I’ll be bringing one next time.
The other major disappointment for me was The Peak. Now, don’t get me wrong – the views are stunning – but this was the point at which I finally said enough to the over-commercialisation of Hong Kong. Everywhere you go in the city you are basically in a shopping mall, and advertisements and billboards are plastered in any empty space. But here on Victoria Peak, I would have thought there might be a chance to escape some of that and get some fresh air (alas no fresh air – see previous point). But the Peak is just another endless stream of shopping, and in fact you have to really try to find an exit to get outside! Defeated, I tried to go for a walk on one of the walking trails and found that one of them was massively under construction; the other had couples in various states of undress. So I headed back into the ‘village’ for a drink, thinking I was perhaps just having a bad run of things. However, my drink ended up costing over £10 – and that’s robbery in Hong Kong, I wouldn’t even pay that here in the UK. I wouldn’t tell you not to go – the views are certainly one of a kind – but keep your expectations in check and don’t forget your wallet.
In Summary
I must say that Hong Kong is a fantastic place to visit! The food is amazing, the nightlife seemingly endless, and the Asian-inspired cosmopolitan feel is unmatched elsewhere in the world. Rent an apartment on Hong Kong Island, mingle with the locals, and soak up the Hong Kong vibe – you’ll be more fabulous for it.
Have you been to Hong Kong? What’s your view? Likes / Dislikes?
Andy Hayes is the managing editor of Sharing Travel Experiences. Featured in Newsweek, the Wall Street Journal, National Geographic Traveler, and other major publications, he travels for up to seven weeks at a time and spends the other seven right here with you. Follow him on Twitter, @andrewghayes.
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March 11th, 2009 at 1:15 am
Yeah, but the mall at The Peak has a McDonalds in it that sells sweet corn! Awesome!
Dave2’s last blog post..Mondays
March 11th, 2009 at 7:15 am
Hmm…that wasn’t very high on my list for some reason.
March 15th, 2009 at 12:02 pm
Heh.. I think for The Peak you really just have to brown-bag it from downtown and go on weekdays where its less crowded. I personally went on a weekend and that new ‘futuristic’ looking Peak Tower definitely makes it worse.. they didn’t have that a few years back when I first went there..
My other fave experiences: getting a Palm Reading in Temple St (only possible thanks to my local friends who translated for me), Happy Valley Racecourse on Wednesday nights, and Lantau Island as well – the Ngong Ping 360 and the Giant Buddha!
Nik’s last blog post..Photo Friday – Castle Rock, New Zealand
March 16th, 2009 at 10:37 am
Those are all great experiences too. I love the Wisdom Path around the back of Big Buddha.
I have to say I didn’t get my palm read on Temple St – some of those scary looking fortune tellers didn’t inspire much confidence (particularly the ones who were half-asleep in their little stall)!
March 17th, 2009 at 8:06 pm
We stopped over in Hong Kong on our way back from New Zealand – just because we could not because we particularly wanted to and were so glad we did. 2 days was nowhere near long enough. I can’t pinpoint what it was that captivated us – all I know is that we were and we are really keen to go back.
March 17th, 2009 at 10:14 pm
Hi Jackie
Hong Kong has a certain energy about it. As you say, it is hard to put your finger on it, but it is something special indeed.
March 23rd, 2009 at 8:24 pm
[...] my latest trip to Cambodia and Hong Kong, I was looking through my bookshelf for some reading materials to take with me – there’s [...]
June 25th, 2009 at 12:00 am
I enjoyed the Big Buddha and the natural walking area around the back of Buddha (I think called the Wisdom Track). I did this trip pre-chairlift so it is now easier to get there. Busy (but so is HK) but strangely therapeutic and great to travel out by boat.
Mark H’s last blog post..The World’s Steepest Street (Dunedin, New Zealand)
June 25th, 2009 at 10:01 am
@Mark – Yes, indeed, it is the Wisdom Path. Quite nice although when I was there it was a bit smoggy
October 22nd, 2009 at 11:16 am
[...] LOVE Hong Kong, a cosmopolitan centre of culture. I’m not surprised to see it on this list as pretty much everywhere you go, there’s [...]
December 1st, 2009 at 12:52 am
I also really liked Hong Kong and think it’s underrated as a destination. It definitely makes for a interesting stopover before heading back across the pond.
I had unexpected opinions of the city by the time I left. The first being the nearly oppressive “City” feel. I mean, its distopian, overcrowded, over-constructed, Blade Runner-esque feel. Some people may not be so enamored of this quality, but after a month in Thailand, I though it was pretty cool.
I also loved the neon of Nathan Road lighting up the night. The shopping is great there. But really only if you’re a woman. My girlfriend found endless deals. Myself, I couldn’t have found a men’s shop if my life depended on it!
December 5th, 2009 at 12:54 am
@Nico – Yes, it’s one of those places that has such a vibrant contrast – the glamour and glitzy skyline with the grime and stink behind it. I love it.
And you obviously weren’t looking hard enough – Temple St Market has cheap men’s socks and underwear. LOL
December 23rd, 2009 at 10:37 pm
[...] Oh, Hong Kong, how I love thee. (Except for the smog.) Crazy markets, scary but delicious restaurants, and that stunning skyline. If I lived in Asia, I’d definitely live in Hong Kong – pearls or not. Be sure to check out my round-up of things to do in Hong Kong. [...]